ROLLING ALONG THE RIVER
Fall and winter, when the summer crowds are gone, is an ideal time to travel Sonoma County’s Highway 116 between Sebastopol and the coast — past harvest-colored vineyards and groves of redwoods. This route is known as the Gravenstein Highway (although names on signage will change a number of times) after the Gravenstein apple, once a mainstay of the local economy.
Along the 26-mile drive, the rolling hills give way to forested river canyon and then return to undulating terrain as you approach the coast. Add in culinary and wine highlights and you’ll see how easy it is to adopt a relaxed riverside lifestyle.
Pack up for a leisurely weekend without worrying about the traffic — so you can extend your time in favorite places on a whim.
“I love walking into the winery this time of year and breathing in those heady, magical smells of wine fermenting in new oak barrels — so promising and full of life,” says Joy Sterling, CEO of Iron Horse Vineyards. “Outside, the vineyards are golden and glowing, the air is clean and crisp, apples cover the ground in the orchard, and we have decked out the tasting area with pumpkins and gourds from my father’s garden.”
Here are nine essential stops along Sonoma County’s Highway 116.
— Jill K. Robinson
1. Sebastopol: Stretching across four city blocks, the Barlow is a maker campus opened in 2013. Former applesauce canning buildings and modern additions owned by Barney Aldridge serve as a food, art and wine center. Restaurants, cafes, tasting rooms and shops are scattered across the campus, inviting visitors to wander and discover. Arrive in the morning to see the place slowly awaken while you have breakfast and fuel up for the day. Offerings include organic coffee and small bites (Taylor Maid Farms), freshly baked breads and pastries (Village Bakery), organic juices (the Nectary), crepes (Ultra Crepes) and yerba mate (Guayaki Yerba Mate Cafe). While you’re there, duck into the Community Market for lunch provisions. The Barlow, McKinley Street, Sebastopol, (707) 824-5600. www. thebarlow.net. Community Market, 6762 Sebastopol Ave. Suite 100, Sebastopol, (707)407-4020. www.srcommunitymarket. com
2. Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve: Visit this majestic grove of coast redwoods in the morning, when mists linger among the towering trees. It’s also the least crowded then, so you can wander along trails hearing birdsong, bubbling creeks and deer rambling through the brush. The Discovery Trail and Pioneer Nature Trail, the easiest and most level, meander among the tallest and oldest trees in the grove — the Parson Jones Tree and the Colonel Armstrong Tree. Add to your adventure in the forest by continuing your time along the East Ridge Trail and Pool Ridge Trail. Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, 17000 Armstrong Woods Road, Guerneville. www.parks.ca.gov
3. Duncans Mills: After a respite among the redwoods, head to this tearoom in the tiny village of Duncans Mills (population about 175). Once a burgeoning lumber mill town established by brothers Samuel and Alexander Duncan (which is why the name Duncans is plural, not possessive), it’s now home to a few shops featuring antiques, handcrafted goods and refreshments. At Mr. Trombly’s Tea, there’s always a warm cup of tea available to sip as you peruse the shop, stocked with teas that range in taste from bright to flowery to malty to vegetal. Genmaicha, Cold Chaser and Immunity Booster are excellent fall choices. Mr. Trombly’s Tea, 25185 Main St., Duncans Mills, (707) 865-9979. www.mr tromblystea.com
4. Goat Rock Beach, Sonoma Coast
State Park: A short drive from Duncans Mills, as the Russian River gorge widens to a valley dotted with farms, the salty smell of the coast filters in through car windows. Sonoma Coast
State Park’s sandy beaches and craggy coastline make up one of California’s most scenic attractions. Head to Goat Rock, near the mouth of the Russian River, to enjoy the easily accessible sandy beach, or spy the colony of harbor seals that make this spot their home. Goat Rock is also perfect for picnics, so plan when you grab your breakfast at the Barlow. Sonoma Coast State Park, 3095 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay, (707) 875-3483, www.parks.ca.gov
5. Sophie’s Cellars: Back on Highway 116, ease your return to civilization with a stop at Sophie’s Cellars, a tasting room on the borders of the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast wine appellations. The shop, owned by John Haggard, features limited-production wines from across Sonoma County, specializing in wines from the Russian River Valley, Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley and Rockpile. Relax in the outdoor wine garden with a glass, bottle or flight paired with artisan cheese (available on site), or choose an ale from Russian River Brewing Co. for a different beverage direction. Sophie’s Cellars, 25179 Hwy. 116, Duncans Mills, (707) 865-1122, www.sophies cellars.com. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, until 7 p.m. Friday.
6. Guerneville: Finally, cool your heels at the Applewood Inn, set in a historic 1922 farm along the Russian River. Each of the 19 rooms is well appointed; however, a favorite is the old master bedroom in the main building, which has a balcony under the redwoods. The on-site pool and hot tub are ideal places to relax, daily continental breakfast includes eggs from the hotel’s chickens, and the newly renovated Revival restaurant offers delicious West County cuisine from ricotta dumplings with shiitake and lobster mushrooms ($23) to the Five Dot Ranch flatiron steak with spigarello and sprouted grains ($30). Applewood Inn, 18555 Hwy. 116, Guerneville, (707) 8699098, www.applewoodinn.com. Rates from: $225. Restaurant open for dinner Thursday-Monday. 7. Korbel Winery: A day that begins with bubbles can rarely go wrong, and Korbel Winery makes sure its guests have a rich experience with a complimentary, 50-minute tour (offered multiple times per day) through its historic sparkling wine cellars and history museum, ending with a taste of some favorite products. The three Korbel brothers began winemaking on their ranch in 1882, and shipped their first California sparkling wines by the late 1890s. If you prefer to skip straight to the tasting, hosts in the Korbel tasting room will gladly offer free tastes of four wines. Grab a snack at the on-site delicatessen (with premade delicacies, as well as freshly made items) before you taste some more wine, down the road. Korbel Winery, 13250 River Road, Guerneville, (707) 824-7676, www.korbel. com. Open 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. (Nov. 1-April 30), 10 a.m.-5 p.m. May 1-Oct. 31.
8. Iron Horse Vineyards: For a different view of winemaking in the region, visit Iron Horse Vineyards, in the Green Valley of Russian River. The approximately 160 acres under vine are planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and from the winery, there’s a spectacular view across Sonoma County to Mount St. Helena. Tastings of the estate-grown wines (including sparkling wine) are done in the outdoor tasting room, and tours are also offered — to ensure you get the time you want, book an online reservation. Iron Horse Vineyards, 9786 Ross Station Road, Sebastopol, (707) 887-1507. www.iron horsevineyards.com Open 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. daily. Tasting fee: $25. 9. The Barlow: It’s back to the Barlow at the end of the weekend for a longer look around, when all the shops, restaurants and tasting rooms are open. Peruse clothes and accessories at Tamarind Clothing, housewares at Sebastopol Kitchen and Table, and art at the Tibetan Gallery & Studio. Or continue tasting cheese (Wm. Cofield Cheesemakers), pizza (Vignette Pizzeria), ice cream (Sub Zero Ice Cream), wine (La Follette Wines, MacPhail Tasting Lounge, Marimar Estate, Wind Gap Wines), beer (Crooked Goat Brewing, Woodfour Brewing) and spirits (Spirit Works Distillery) and wrap up your weekend with a leisurely stroll around the campus before hitting the road home. The Barlow, McKinley Street, Sebastopol, (707) 824-5600, www. thebarlow.net. Open 6 a.m.-12 a.m. daily. Individual shop hours vary.