In Search of Israeli Cuisine
The intriguing, easily digestible documentary “In Search of Israeli Cuisine” has a lot more than food on its plate. There are also helpings of travel, history and — this being the Middle East — ethnic tensions. Who knew that hummus could cause such a hullabaloo?
Our tour guide for this melting pot of a movie is the congenial Michael Solomonov, an Israeli-born chef raised in America. As one might suspect in a film of this ilk, he samples the fare in kitchens across Israel, and every dish is splendid. Fortunately, though, this is not simply a food-tasting expedition.
“In Search” is also an education about Israel’s surprisingly diverse cultures, and an exploration of how social, demographic and economic forces have propelled the country’s food scene from bland to exciting. Along the way, we visit every corner of Israel: The film is a beautiful travelogue of the nation’s wide-ranging terrain, whether it’s beaches, deserts or olive gardens.
The documentary is at its best when it nibbles at the ethnic difficulties that work their way into the food sphere. An Arab chef laments how Israel has claimed hummus for its own. Palestinians face difficulties in opening their own restaurants. An Arab husband and his Jewish wife ruminate on the confusion that their eating place caused among customers. Another highlight is Solomonov’s family story, including a tragic event in his past that adds shading to all the scenes that come before and after.
“In Search” begins to get repetitive in its final half hour, when it restates old questions and revisits cities for no discernible reason other than to extend the viewing time. But the main course is satisfying enough to make the meal enjoyable.