Paula Wolfert’s Ajvar
Makes 2 to 2½ cups
“Proust had madeleines; Paula Wolfert has eggplants,” notes Emily Kaiser Thelin in “Unforgettable” (Mortar & Pestle; 336 pages; $35). Wolfert’s love of nightshades dates back to childhood. Adapted from the book, this is Wolfert’s best guess at her grandmother’s recipe for the Balkan eggplant spread she grew up eating. It’s a great accompaniment for grilled meats as well as thick slices of crusty bread, and its flavor improves as it sits; in fact, Wolfert recommends letting it sit overnight before serving. Refrigerate leftovers for up to one week.
3 or 4 sweet red bell peppers (about 4 ounces each) 1 poblano pepper (about 4 ounces) 2 eggplants (about 12 ounces each) 2 garlic cloves, peeled ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil + more for topping 1 tablespoon unfiltered cider vinegar Heaping ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Pinch of mild red pepper flakes, preferably Aleppo or Marash (optional) Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
Instructions: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Char the red bell peppers and poblano pepper by setting them directly on a gas burner with the flame turned to medium-high and rotating them as they blacken. If the skins are fully charred but the flesh is not yet tender, transfer the peppers to a foil-lined sheet pan and bake until soft to the point of collapsing, 10 to 25 minutes depending on the thickness of the peppers.
Pierce the eggplants a few times with a sharp knife. Set them on a foil-lined sheet pan and bake until soft to the point of collapsing, 30 to 40 minutes.
Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl, cover with a plate or plastic wrap, and let steam and cool.
Using your fingers or a paring knife, peel the eggplants and the peppers. Remove any large seed pockets in the eggplant, and then stem and seed the peppers. Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl. Using your hands, pull the peppers and eggplant apart into chunks, then massage them between your fingers to form a coarse paste. Set aside.
Using a mortar and pestle, the back of a heavy knife and a cutting board, or a mini food processor, crush together the garlic and salt, forming a paste. Add the garlic paste, olive oil, vinegar, black pepper and the red pepper flakes and cayenne, if using, to the eggplant mixture and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more vinegar, salt, and black, red and cayenne pepper if needed.
Transfer to a jar and top with ¼-inch layer of olive oil. Cover tightly and refrigerate at least overnight before serving. Season lightly once more before serving.