Explore the 2nd and Les Halles
DINE
1 Bachaumont and Nightflight: A grand hotel during the early 20th century that hosted celebrities and socialites has been restored to its former glory by Dorothée Meilichzon, a young French designer who gave it a swank redo and jolted a quiet side street. The social scene in the bar, Nightflight, and the restaurant buzzes with travelers and Parisians. The vibe is sophisticated and low-key — Scandinavian meets Art Deco. Updated brasserie staples like beef tartare with fries share the menu with nouveau fare such as shrimp carpaccio with green chile and lemon. Dinner nightly. 18 Rue Bachaumont, Paris, 33-1-81-66-47-50
2 Ellsworth: Marble-topped tables and brass sconces add polish to the pastry-hued stone walls in this charming little restaurant in Les Halles. The menu highlights seasonal small plates with Parisian flair: sardines with violet potatoes, tiny chunks of lemon and herbs, house ricotta with roasted onions and radish, foraged wild cockles from Utah Beach steamed in beer with greens and herbs. Lunch and dinner daily. 34 Rue de Richelieu, Paris; 33-1-42-60-59-66
3 Edgar: The French have discovered brunch, and this restaurant in the hotel Edgar, on a quiet square just a quick hop from Rue Montorgueil, is a local favorite. Edgy black-and-white photos, wood tables, concrete floors. On a nice day, patio seating is the way to go. Don’t expect pancakes here: the menu is seafood-focused, fish and chips, catch of the day, razor clams. On the lighter side, salad with fresh asparagus and egg. Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday, brunch Sunday. 31 Rue d’Alexandrie, Paris; 33-1-40-41-05-69
4 Spring: Daniel Rose’s tiny ingredient-focused restaurant in Les Halles helped shape the bistronomie movement. A monthly changing four-course menu is a nod to classics — think escargot with shiitake mushrooms — but without froufrou updates. Servers are friendly and accommodating: “Any allergies? Are you OK with escargot? Do you eat sweetbreads?” No. Yes. Yes. “OK, then you’re going to have fun!” Reservations taken from 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. 6 Rue Bailleul, Paris; 33-1-45-96-05-72. www.springparis.fr.com
DRINK
5 Frenchie Bar au Vin: This lively wine bar is a spin-off of the restaurant by Gregory Marchand, one of the stars of the bistronomie movement. Pair your wine with rabbit terrine, salsa verde and pickled radishes or a plate of potato gnocchi, nettle cream, morels and feta. Grab seats at one of the tall tables or if you’re dining solo, a seat at the small bar. 6 Rue du Nil, Paris; 33-1-40-39-96-19
6 Lockwood: Good coffee flows in the morning, cocktails at night at this cafe/bar. In the evening, the cellar is the place to be, with music and dancing. 8 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Saturday. 73 Rue d’Aboukir, Paris; 33-1-7732-97-21
SHOP
7 Fou de Patisserie: A tiny shop started by the founders of a magazine dedicated to pastry features a rotating menu of sweets by Paris’ top chefs, all priced at 5.9 euros (about $6.41). 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday. 45 Rue Montorgueil, Paris.
8 G. Detou: The name of this specialty food shop sounds like French for “I have everything” and is 100 percent accurate. The shop is wallto-wall, floor-to-ceiling stocked with every obscure ingredient imaginable — candied rose or violet petals, nougat, foie gras, mustards were a few recognizable ones. Pack some some French sea salts to re-create some dishes when you return home. 8:30 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday. 58 Rue Tiquetonne, Paris; 33-1-42-36-54-67
9 Espace Kiliwatch: Clothes freaks will get lost in this boutique and secondhand store, which sells new and vintage fashion. A must-visit if you missed out on the Irish sweater fad in the ’70s or want to bring out your inner Bobo. 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday, until 7:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. 64 Rue Tiquetonne, Paris; 33-1-42-21-17-37. www. kiliwatch.paris