Pedaling Paris
Central Paris is made for walking, and increasingly, bicycling. Despite its narrow streets and busy boulevards, the city is remarkably bike-friendly thanks to an ambitious campaign to curb vehicle use and reduce pollution.
Velib, the city’s bike share, turns 10 this year with 1,800 stations and more than 23,000 bicycles for rent. The now-ubiquitous gray bikes are popular with Parisians and tourists. You can purchase a ticket to use the system for the day for 1.7 euros. The first half hour is free; after that, your credit card is charged 1 euro for the first additional 30 minutes, 2 euros for the next half hour and then 4 euros every 30 minutes after that. So 7 euros for two hours (not including the fee to access the system). There is no helmet rental, so consider packing one.
The Velib app maps station locations and lists the number of bikes available. You can rent a bike on the spot at any station, but it’s more convenient to sign up online, where instructions are easier to read. You’ll get an email with a code and your password. Punch in the numbers at the station kiosk, unlock a bike and you’re good to go. Be sure to scout the bike you want — occasionally one is returned without a pedal. If there is something wrong, simply lock it back up and select a different bike. Out-of-commission bikes are quickly fixed by the roving repair crew.
If you’re new to bicycling in Paris, map your route ahead of time and go early on a Sunday or a holiday when many of the city streets are car-free.
I pedaled along the Right Bank, taking a ramp down to the river, which turned out to be a bad idea — cobblestones made for a bonerattling ride. Back up on Rue de Rivoli, the route was smoother and the bike lanes clearly marked. Navigating traffic in the Place de la Concorde and large intersections was hairy, but once across Pont Alexandre, it was easy going to the Eiffel Tower. On the way back, I pedaled along the Seine on the Left Bank, where a portion of the old motorway has been reclaimed for pedestrians and bicyclists. There are cafes, parks and activities for kids. A similar riverfront renewal project opened last month on the Right Bank.
There are more than 270 kilometers (168 miles) of bike lanes in the city. Ride to Montmartre, out to Pere Lachaise cemetery or along the Canal St. Martin to the Parc de la Villette. Pick up picnic supplies at one of the new-era cafes (see maps) to toss into the basket, and don’t forget the sunscreen.
For more on Velib, go to http:// en.velib.paris.fr/. For cycling routes, go to http://parismap 360.com/paris-bike-map.