A PRIMER ON USING RICE IN INDIAN CUISINE.
Though rice is a grain that is more often considered a side or starch in the United States, it has been, and continues to be, highly symbolic in Indian culture. Its significance is borne out of its ability to sustain and nourish life, both for humans and domesticated animals. Rice is grown all over India, from the Himalayas to the south, from the east to the west.
The importance of rice in Indian culture can be observed when it makes an appearance at important life events and celebratory occasions, regardless of faith. The first morsel of solid food fed to a baby is usually boiled rice or kheer, a rice pudding. Oftentimes, uncooked rice grains are mixed with roli or sandalwood paste and then applied to the forehead as a red spot or tilak to help center a person’s energy and act as the cooling medium. In Hindu culture, rice is considered a symbol of prosperity and well-being; at weddings and prayers, it is an offering to religious deities for protection and blessings. Muslim families will prepare aromatic and fragrant pots of spiced meats layered with rice to make biryani, a feast to behold in itself. Types of rice: Brown basmati (from top right), white basmati, wild basmati (with spoon), Indian red rice, ponni rice, idli rice.
Rice varieties
The rice used in Indian cooking comes in many forms, shapes and colors, but it is usually classified by the length of the grain.
Long-grain rice includes the highly prized basmati, considered the queen of Indian rice. Available in white, brown and red varietals, its name literally translates to “fragrance.” (Before basmati rice grew in popularity in the United States, Carolina long-grain rice acted as a substitute for many Indian home cooks. But fortunately, these days, Indian basmati is easily available in almost every store across the country.)
Within basmati there are several grades, including a less-expensive one called broken basmati; as the name suggests, it is chipped and often used as a cost-effective “everyday rice.” Another long-grain variety is the patna, which has a much milder flavor.
Medium-grain rice has a shorter yet wider kernel, such as the ponni rice, often used in southern India to prepare biryani.
Short-grain rice is usually almost twice as wide as long, including the sona massori and matta varietals.
Other forms of rice commonly used include a flattened variety called poha, where grains of rice are pounded to increase surface area. This treatment makes the grains act like sponges when they come in contact with liquids, so flattened rice is often used in porridges and snacks. In southern Indian cooking, a special variety of rice called idli is used to make steamed rice and lentil cakes.
Then there’s aged rice, which carries a special significance. Especially at Indian grocery stores, you may see rice labeled as “aged.” As the name implies, the rice undergoes a process of maturation that ranges between 1½ to 3 years. The result is a less-starchy grain that’s much more aromatic than the younger grains. Consequently, aged rice is highly valued and used at celebrations and special events.
The rinse and presoak
Should you rinse rice? I prefer to rinse, especially when using polished rice. I do it in a fine-mesh sieve under cold running tap water until the water leaving the rice is no longer cloudy from the starch granules. This is always a good idea when it comes to cooking pilafs, lest you end up with a sticky texture and grains that might clump when cooked. On the other hand, there are dishes, especially Indian rice puddings like kheer and phirni, where you need the starch granules to gelatinize to create a custardlike consistency.
Should you presoak rice? Presoaking makes a significant difference to the brown, black and wild rice varieties by helping them cook faster and taste better. In some recipes, like in phirni (see recipe), the process helps make the grains more amenable to grinding. For wild rice and brown rice, I usually soak the grains in water overnight; in most other cases, I find that a 1- to 1½-hour soak works best.
How to cook rice
There are two schools of thought on cooking rice in Indian kitchens. The first method, which I use less frequently and which takes longer, is the draining method. Here, the rice is cooked with a large quantity of water; once the grains are tender, the excess water is drained and discarded.
I personally stick to the more common absorption method, where rice is cooked with a set amount of water — usually a 2-to-1 ratio — until the water is completely absorbed by the grains and evaporated. The method:
Wash the rice under running cold tap water until the water is no longer cloudy. For two servings, soak 1 cup of rice for 1 to 1½ hours in 2 cups of water. Once the rice has soaked, drain and discard the water. Add the rice to a thick-bottomed saucepan with a lid. Add 2 cups of water to the saucepan and bring the contents to a rolling boil, reduce the heat, cover with the lid and cook the rice on low heat for about 10 to 12 minutes until most of the water has evaporated. Turn off heat and allow to rest, covered, for about 5 minutes. Just before serving, use a fork to fluff up the rice and serve hot.
When cooking plain rice, I never add salt as it tends to kill the aroma of the grains, but if I’m cooking a biryani or a similar dish, I will add salt. One more little trick of mine: When preparing pilafs/pulaos, I fry the rice for a couple of minutes in hot oil before adding water or stock. This helps to prevent the grains from sticking once they’re cooked.