AL’S PLACE

Everyone talks about moving vegetables to the center of the plate, but Aaron London actually accomplishes that task. It isn’t easy to make diehard carnivores crave such items as yellow bean stew with chunks of torn bread, but London achieves the nearly impossible. He’s devised numerous tricks to add complexity to dishes: brining and pickling potatoes before frying, grilling turnip tops for a bold pesto, pickling green peaches, and dozens of other techniques. He offers meats, such as smoked brisket with maple mustard or trout with a Thai-inspired sauce, but they are listed as sides. While everything is offered a la carte, most people head for his family-style menu ($65), which showcases his greatest hits and a few surprises. While the restaurant is modest — like a diner, with subway tile, plywood tables and an open kitchen — London’s talent has earned him the sort of national reputation achieved by only a handful of chefs.

Cuisine Northern Californian | Specialties French fries made from fermented potatoes; freshly dug radishes with Meyer lemon butter; seasonal vegetable curry with black lime-marinated cod; yellow eye bean stew; Payday brownie with peanuts and caramel | Seats 43 (plus 6 at the bar, 16 on patio) | Prices $15-$19 (plus 5% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals: 1499 Valencia St., San Francisco. (415) 416-6136. www.alsplacesf.com Dinner Wednesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Lightly cured trout with crispy potatoes and mousse at Al’s Place.