San Francisco Chronicle

BAR AGRICOLE

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When Thad Vogler, one of the city’s top mixologist­s, opened this stylish restaurant in 2010, he placed equal emphasis on the bar and the dining room — a trend that took off. Not only does his crew stir, mix and shake some of the best seasonal and classic cocktails in the city, but chef Seth Stowaway also holds his own in the kitchen with such items as grilled crab with chickpeas, preserved lemon and fava greens; and chicken broth with baby kale, potatoes and fermented turnips. The restaurant now features eight or more excellent charcuteri­e and salumi items produced at its sister restaurant, Trou Normand. Service is smooth, and the interior has won national awards for its cutting-edge design featuring high ceilings, skylights and comfortabl­e banquettes made of polished concrete. A patio in front capitalize­s on the area’s sunny location.

Cuisine Northern California­n (drink-centric) | Specialtie­s Cocktails from hand-sourced spirits; oysters; salumi; wood-grilled chicken. | Seats 66 (plus 14 at the bar, 32 on the patio); private room for 32 | Prices $20-$32 (plus 5% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating AAAA | Parking Street, often difficult Vitals 355 11th St., San Francisco. (415) 355-9400. www.baragricol­e.com Dinner nightly. Sunday brunch. Full bar. Reservatio­ns and credit cards accepted.

Hammersley oysters with mignonette (left), pork sausages (above left), soft-boiled egg with creme fraiche and salmon roe (right) and pig’s head fritters (top).

For some of us food is like a religion. And Bellota is the perfect place to worship. The entrance feels like a narthex leading to the open kitchen behind what looks like a brass altar, flanked by haunches of Iberico ham lit by the dappled glow of the wood oven. While there’s always a lively buzz, this is one of the few warehouse-style restaurant­s where diners can actually converse without shouting. The interior is both chic and comfortabl­e. Chef Ryan McIlwraith, who was formerly the chef at another Top 100 restaurant, Coqueta, has found the formula to produce the best paella in the city. The four varieties (including an exceptiona­l vegetable version) are served with a spatula; diners can pry up the crisp crust that extends from the edges to the center of the pan. It’s all washed down with an exceptiona­l gin and tonic garnished with citrus and a bouquet of fragrant herbs.

Cuisine Spanish | Specialtie­s Gin tonic; bravas (crisp fried potatoes); jamon Iberico de Bellota and other charcuteri­e; seafood tower; whole roasted fish; paella | Seats 108 (plus 24 at the bar and 30 in the lounge); private room 32 | Prices $18-$25 (plus 5% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating AAA | Parking Difficult street parking

Vitals 888 Brannan St., San Francisco. (415) 430-6580. www.bellotasf.com Lunch weekdays; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservatio­ns and credit cards accepted.

Rice pudding at Bellota, which has the formula to produce the best paella in S.F.

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