BULL VALLEY ROADHOUSE

When owners Earl Flewellen and Samuel Spurrier were hosting the Roadhouse’s staff party earlier this year, the restaurant flooded. The staff banded together, and people from Port Costa, a town of 190, lent a hand, literally saving the restaurant. That small-town story perfectly captures this restaurant’s spirit. In 2012, the partners took over the rundown restaurant and adjacent Burlington Hotel, in a 19th century structure, and worked tirelessly to restore its Victorian charm. The past is highlighted in classic cocktails (all excellent) and in the family-style menu from chefowner David Williams. For example, pork stew is garnished with lime because citrus helped prevent scurvy back in the day. Portions are copious, and the service is boardinghouse friendly. Cuisine American | Specialties Buttermilk fried chicken with black-eyed peas and biscuits; mussels and fries in a spicy sauce; pork stew with tomatillo and guajillo chile; macaroni gratin; honey ice cream | Seats 70 (plus 24 at the bar, 48 on the patio); private room for 65 | Prices $26-$35 (some dishes could easily serve 2) | Noise rating | Parking Street, easy Vitals 14 Canyon Lake Drive, Port Costa. (510) 787-1135. www.bullvalleyroadhouse. com Dinner Thursday-Sunday; brunch Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

The bar area has a Victorian charm at the Bull Valley Roadhouse in Port Costa.