CALIFORNIOS

Some of the most exciting local interpretations of Mexican food are coming out of the tiny exhibition kitchen headed by chef-owner Val M. Cantu. He turns staples such as tacos, flautas and frijoles into something spectacular. Over the last year, he’s further refined his offerings, and a cadre of at least seven white-clad cooks prepare the intricate combinations while he stands on the side directing each dish. His frijoles include beans that are both pureed and made into a foam, with a dollop of caviar and sprinkles of gold leaf; a blue corn tortilla not much bigger than a dime is topped with Wagyu tartare; his taco has a perfect rectangle of pork cheek accented with pumpkin seed mole and apples macerated in serrano chiles. Co-owner Charlotte Randolph worked at the French Laundry and maintains the wine list; her pairings are impeccable. Cantu’s wife, Carolyn, designed the elegant interior with tufted banquettes, dark paneled walls, white tablecloths and glittering chandeliers. Books that inspire Cantu are housed on shelves in the dining room and behind the kitchen, adding another personal touch.

Cuisine Mexican | Specialties The menu changes nightly but reimagines familiar Mexican classics | Seats 18 (plus 6 at the chef’s counter) | Prices $157 for about 19 courses (plus 20% service charge); wine pairings $75 | Noise rating | Parking Street, difficult Vitals 3115 22nd St., San Francisco. (415) 757-0994. www.californiossf.com Dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Grilled Sonoma duck at Californios, which turns Mexican staples into exciting dishes.