FRENCH LAUNDRY
To stay on top, four-star restaurants continually rethink the decor and what’s on the plate. But few places go as far as the 23-year-old French Laundry, which for more than a year has been undergoing a multimilliondollar construction project that includes tearing down several buildings and building a new showcase, state-of-the-art kitchen; wine cellar; offices; and a private dining room. Thomas Keller also gently updated the interior by changing the beige color scheme to gray and the woodwork from cherry to walnut. The project is scheduled to be finished this summer, but it’s already reinvigorated the staff. They are revisiting classics such as Oysters and Pearls. The once-whole oysters are now chopped and blended into the sabayon with the tapioca, topped by caviar. Chef David Breeden continues to be guided by what’s grown in the garden across the street, and no ingredient is repeated on the menu — except maybe caviar, foie gras and truffles. There’s also a daily changing all-vegetable menu.
Cuisine Northern Californian, French | Specialties Menu changes nightly, but signature dishes include Oyster and Pearls (pearl tapioca with oysters and caviar); Beets and Leeks; cornets of salmon tartare; Coffee and Doughnuts (espresso mousse and doughnuts) | Seats 62 (plus courtyard for 8-12 in season); private room for 12 | Prices $310 for 9 courses (service included) | Noise rating | Parking Free lot, street Vitals 6640 Washington St., Yountville. (707) 944-2380. www.frenchlaundry.com Lunch Friday-Sunday; dinner nightly. Beer, wine and spirits. Reservations accepted two months in advance. Credit cards accepted.