LIHOLIHO YACHT CLUB

Ravi Kapur has earned a rare distinction: making just about everyone crave Hawaiian food. Kapur wasn’t fulfilled as the chef of the high-profile Prospect, so he returned to his home state, where he became inspired by the flavors he grew up with. Using that as a jumping-off point, he’s created dishes that are wholly his own. He coats beef ribs with kimchi chile sauce, makes his own Spam for fried rice with bay shrimp and abalone mushrooms, and bathes clams in coconut curry. He’s also infused a very personal feel into the narrow dining room. A billboard-size 1975 black-and-white photo of his mother with her dark hair fluttering in the breeze dominates the back bar. The open kitchen is covered in electric yellow tile — what he calls his happy color. The experience embodies the aloha spirit at every turn, including when waiters present napkins to each guest. Partner Jeff Hanak, who also is an owner of Nopa and Nopalito, adds polish to the wine list and service. Together they’ve created a playful restaurant with food that’s seriously fun.

Cuisine Hawaiian | Specialties Beef tongue with kimchi in a poppy seed steamed bun; fried oysters with beef carpaccio; country pork steak with root vegetables; fried Cornish hen with cashews and tamari glaze; whole lobster in black bean sauce; baked Hawaii with roasted pineapple ice cream. | Seats 55 (plus 15 at the bar; 10 at communal table) | Prices Shared plates: $31.25-$48.75 (plus 4% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating AAAA | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals 871 Sutter St., San Francisco. (415) 440-5446. www.liholihoyachtclub.com Dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations offered for two-thirds of the restaurant. Credit cards accepted.

Fried oyster with carpaccio at Liholiho Yacht Club, offering refined Hawaiian food.