MIMINASHI

Curtis Di Fede made a name as a chef-owner of the Southern Italianinfluenced Oenotri in downtown Napa. He left the business in 2014 and spent some time traveling and deciding on his next move. He wound up falling in love with Japan and opened this izakaya featuring small plates, such as a celery root salad with burnt Meyer lemon, white soy and baby lettuces, and several ramen dishes. You can often find the chef standing at the flaming grill, cooking any one of the 20 skewered items, which include every conceivable part of the chicken (neck, skin, heart) and vegetables such as maitake mushrooms. He also features large plates, which might include salmon collar, yellowfin tuna with Japanese mustard and a 22-ounce prime New York strip served with grated daikon and tare, a dipping sauce. At an angled entry, the wooden doors are carved with hundreds of bumps meant to represent Mount Fuji. The 20-foot ceiling is covered with multifaceted levels of poplar wood representing interconnecting pagodas.

Cuisine Japanese | Specialties Chawanmushi (Japanese savory custard); chicken yakitori; spicy chicken karaage with Scarlet turnips; nightly changing fried rice; soft cream with various sauces and toppings (try the miso caramel). | Seats 70 (plus 20 in the lounge) | Prices $17-$32 | Noise rating AAAA | Parking Street, sometimes difficult Vitals 821 Coombs St., Napa. (707) 254-9464. www.miminashi.com Lunch weekdays; dinner nightly. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

The Salmon Collar at Miminashi, an izakaya in Napa featuring small plates.