PARK TAVERN

This American brasserie captures the vibrant spirit of North Beach, one of San Francisco’s most beloved neighborhoods. Like Zuni Café, the menu contains so many signature dishes that chef Jennifer Puccio is limited by her own success. Of course they have to offer the Brussels sprouts chips and the hamburger from their sister restaurant Marlowe; and the Demons on Horseback, a must-order starter of smoked prawns wrapped in lardo; and poulet rouge, where the whole chicken is roasted standing up surrounded by seasonal vegetables. The handsomely designed restaurant has large windows overlooking Washington Square Park and a row of tables in front that are perfect for people-watching. With its active bar and convivial spirit, led by owner Anna Weinberg, every day is a celebration. That point is driven home by the monthly changing birthday cake created by Emily Luchetti. It doesn’t really matter if it’s your birthday or not, the slice will arrive with a lit candle.

Cuisine American | Specialties Smoked deviled eggs; Brussels sprouts chips; Park Tavern salad with Green Goddess dressing; prawns wrapped in lardo; Marlowe burger; poulet noir; zabuton steak; monthly birthday cake; Country Lawyer cocktail | Seats 166 (plus 18 in the bar and 18 on the patio); private room for 50 | Prices $17-$42 (plus 6% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating | Parking Valet $12

Vitals 1652 Stockton St., San Francisco. (415) 989-7300. www.parktavernsf.com Lunch Friday; dinner nightly; brunch Saturday and Sunday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Marinated beet salad at Park Tavern, an American brasserie with many favorites.