PETIT CRENN

Atelier Crenn shows the poetic, artistic side of chef Dominique Crenn, but she reveals her soul at this Hayes Valley restaurant, where she channels her grandmother from the Brittany region of France. She posts the nightly changing seven-course menu ($87) on two chalkboards in the sleek, minimal dining room, which features an open kitchen and a 10-seat bar. It’s a neutral stage for her beautifully presented, family-style preparations. Seafood and vegetables star — in fact, the menu is devoid of meat. Dinner might begin with oysters with pickled kohlrabi mignonette, followed by grilled squid with bay shrimp and wild rice, then gnocchi with mushrooms in brown butter. The main course is often a whole fish that’s large enough to feed the entire room, served with two side dishes. In French style, salad and cheese follow, leading into dessert. At the bar diners can order a la carte; lunch features such items as a whole roasted trout and an incredibly light omelet.

Cuisine French, seafood | Specialties The nightly menu often includes a whole roasted trout; omelet (also on the bar and breakfast menu); oysters | Seats 28 (plus 10 at the bar) | Prices $87 for 6 courses; bar menu $15-$38 | Noise rating | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals 609 Hayes St., San Francisco. (415) 864-1744. www.petitcrenn.com Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Beer and wine. Reservations required for tasting menu. Credit cards accepted.

The baby Iceberg lettuce salad at Petit Crenn, a Breton-inspired restaurant.