PIZZAIOLO / BOOT & SHOE SERVICE

Looking for the best pizza in Oakland? Head to either Pizzaiolo or Boot & Shoe Service. Owner Charlie Hallowell, who worked for many years at Chez Panisse, struck out on his own to open Pizzaiolo in 2005, followed by Boot & Shoe four years later. The pizza at both places has a blistered, slightly chewy crust, and some of the best toppings are served at both places, including wild nettles and pecorino; rapini and sausage; and potato, pancetta, fontina and rosemary. The main difference between the two? Pizzaiolo, in what was a 140-year-old hardware store, has a larger menu and takes reservations, while Boot & Shoe Service, named after the business that used to occupy its space, has a pared-down menu and caters to walk-ins, with only one main course, an active bar and slightly lower prices. Both also offer exceptional pasta; the antipasti routinely showcases the best of what’s at the farmers’ market. Those Chez Panisse genes can’t be stifled.

Cuisine Italian | Specialties Neapolitan-style pizza and pasta at both | Seats Pizzaiolo: 80 (plus 8 at the bar; 30 on patio); semiprivate room for 20. Boot & Shoe Service: 60 (plus 40 in lounge; 30 on patio) | Prices $15-$32; Boot & Shoe: $14-$20 | Noise rating | Parking Street, fairly easy

Vitals Pizzaiolo: 5008 Telegraph Ave., Oakland. (510) 652-4888. www.piz zaiolooakland.com. Breakfast daily; dinner Monday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Boot & Shoe Service: 3308 Grand Ave., Oakland. (510) 763-2668. www.bootandshoeservice.com Breakfast Tuesday-Friday; brunch weekends; dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Full bar. No reservations. Credit cards accepted.