THE PROGRESS

Dining at the Progress is a totally designed experience, from the sensuous curve of the table that matches the arches in the ceiling, light fixtures and banister to the orchestrated multi-course menu. The Progress is the more dressed-up relative of Nicole Krasinski and Stuart Brioza’s other restaurant, State Bird Provisions, next door, but the couple still play with traditional restaurant service. Here, diners choose four dishes they will share family style. Every dinner starts with “a few things for the table” that come automatically, such as spicy house-made coppa and dates with hazelnut cream. Guests then check off what they want from the 14 savory listings. Brioza’s nightly inspirations borrow from many cultures in such dishes as raw hamachi citrus salad with smoked olive vinaigrette; lamb tartare with sesame tahini; grilled pork shoulder with sunflower seed sambal; and apple-wood-smoked cod with charred carrot yogurt and lemon beurre noisette. Desserts, crafted by Krasinski, carry an extra charge, but are not to be missed.

Cuisine Northern Californian | Specialties Menu changes nightly, but often features squab, and the State Bird peanut milk for dessert | Seats 90 (plus 30 in the lounge); semi-private rooms for 10, 16 and 36 | Prices $62 for starters and four family-style platters (plus 4% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating AAA | Parking Street, difficult Vitals 1525 Fillmore St., San Francisco. (415) 673-1294. www.theprogress-sf.com Dinner nightly. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Roasted wild mushrooms with pickled local nori and Brussels sprouts at the Progress.