THE RAMEN SHOP

The Oakland ramen restaurant by three Chez Panisse vets — Jerry Jaksich, Rayneil De Guzman and Sam White — sets a standard for others to follow. Each night three soups are offered — such as duck shoyu with smoked and braised duck, baby bok choy and mustard greens; spicy clam miso with ground pork belly, rapini and roasted celery root; or green garlic Meyer lemon shoyu with king oysters, spinach, butternut squash and other vegetables. The half dozen appetizers are also a major draw and might include a crab salad with blood orange and fennel, citrus and guava salad, or squid and pork fried rice. The restaurant, which expanded in 2015, now has a separate bar that stocks over a dozen Japanese whiskeys, great in highballs and excellent with the ramen. The owners’ meticulous approach reveals itself in every aspect of the experience, from the wood and reclaimed-metal fixtures that add an organic look to the dining room and bar to the noodles made with a machine imported from Japan.

Cuisine Japanese | Specialties Ramen (especially vegetable); nightly changing fried rice; pickle plate; any salad; donburi; black sesame ice cream sandwiches | Seats 85 (plus 25 in the lounge) | Prices $17.50-$19.50 | Noise rating AAAA| Parking Free lot

Vitals 5812 College Ave, Oakland. (510) 788-6370. www.ramenshop.com Dinner nightly; breakfast and lunch Saturday-Sunday. Full bar. Reservations for parties greater than 8. Credit cards accepted.

Wild nettle, shrimp and pork fried rice at the Ramen Shop in Oakland.