THE SARATOGA

Is it a bar or a restaurant? That’s the question we’re continually asking these days at various venues. At the Saratoga, the answer is: both. With more than 800 spirits behind the softly lit bar in the sexy twolevel dining room, there’s no arguing that cocktails are front and center. However, the food under Mark Sullivan, who also is part owner of the Village Pub and of Spruce, holds its own. The 17 or 18 savory offerings are heavy on the carbs and are boldly flavored to stand up to the spirits — pork belly buns with a hefty dose of cumin, spicy chicken sliders, a greasily satisfying Cubano frank, and one of the best hamburgers around. You can go in for a few bites or a full dinner with such things as a New York steak or grilled prawns. Desserts riff on classics such as a chocolate “Ho Ho” and a warm apple hand pie. It’s casual fun, but with a refined edge.

Cuisine Bar-centric | Specialties Cocktails; Toga tots with cheese and chorizo; hamburger with double beef patties, Taleggio cheese and slaw on an onion bun; New York steak in Cognac peppercorn sauce; Scotchy Scotch Scotch pudding | Seats 89 on two levels (plus 32 in the lounges) | Prices $15-$32 (plus 4% S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating B | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals 1000 Larkin St, San Francisco. (415) 932-6464. www.thesaratogasf.com Dinner 5-midnight Monday-Thursday, until 1 a.m. Friday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

Brandon Clements makes the Grand Pendennis cocktail at the Saratoga.