SEVEN HILLS

The foundation of San Francisco dining has always been its high-quality neighborhood restaurants, and this Nob Hill place is the perfect example. The charming interior, with tongue-and-groove wainscoting and a Venetian chandelier over the bar, spreads over two small storefronts, and the service is as professional as you’ll find. Chef Anthony Florian makes his own salumi and practices whole animal butchery, often featuring pork, rabbit and goat. He’s created an extensive menu, given the number of seats, with not only his salumi but eight appetizers and salads, five pastas and three or four main courses, such as leg of pork with potatoes, charred broccoli rabe and salsa verde. Diners can also expect some interesting side dishes, such as roasted Brussels sprouts with lemon and Parmesan.

Cuisine Italian | Specialties House-cured meats; tomato braised pork and beef meatballs; pasta such as maccheroncelli with crushed tomatoes, chiles, basil and housemade ricotta; whole animal cookery | Seats 44 (plus 4 at the bar) | Prices $18-$38 (plus $2 S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating AAAA | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals 1550 Hyde St., San Francisco. (415) 775-1550. www.sevenhillssf.com Dinner nightly. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Grilled swordfish with riso di venere, grilled asparagus, blood orange and burro fuso.