STATE BIRD PROVISIONS

Even though Stuart Brioza and his wife, Nicole Krasinski, expanded and added seats, it’s still just as hard to nab a spot in this restaurant, which won a James Beard Award as the country’s best new restaurant after it opened in 2012. While the restaurant takes reservations for about two-thirds of the seats, the other third are up for grabs, and on any night as many as 50 people stand in line before the restaurant’s 5:30 opening, hoping to score. State Bird started a national trend by using a dim sum style of service. Waiters roam the room with trays and carts, offering such items as oysters with kohlrabi kraut and sesame, curry-roasted cauliflower with smoked date puree, and oxtail and peanut posole. Diners pick what they want and the cart moves on to the next table. In addition, they also offer a short printed menu that includes their signature pancakes and fried quail, the California state bird. Everything is so good the tab adds up quickly.

Cuisine Northern Californian | Specialties Menu changes daily, but you’ll always find fried quail on piquant stewed onions; savory pancakes with such toppings as sauerkraut, beef tongue or sea urchin; World Peace (sweetened milk infused with peanuts) | Seats 66 (plus 10 seats at the chef’s counter); private room for 36 | Prices $3-$26 (plus $3.33 S.F. surcharge) | Noise rating AAAA | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals 1529 Fillmore St., San Francisco. (415) 795-1272. www.statebirdsf.com Dinner nightly. Beer and wine. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

The beef cheek salad at State Bird Provisions, where people line up before it opens.