SWAN OYSTER DEPOT

No other restaurant so deliciously captures the spirit of the San Francisco culinary scene as Swan, a combination restaurant and retail seafood shop. The business has roots that go back to 1912, and since 1946 it has been owned by the Sancimino family. Tom, Steve or one of the other family members is always behind the counter, working with good humor in front of a cluttered backdrop that includes hand-drawn menus and memorabilia collected over the decades. They keep things simple — but every item is pristine, including the best cracked crab in the Bay Area. Most items are cold, but there’s always a warming clam chowder and a whole steamed crab or lobster. A testimonial to the unwavering quality is repeated every day: Both tourists and locals line up on Polk Street patiently waiting for one of the coveted 18 stools at the counter. Diners can enjoy a bowl of chowder, shrimp cocktail and a beer for around $24.

Cuisine Seafood | Specialties Cracked crab; oysters on the half shell; Boston clam chowder; combination salad with Louis dressing; smoked salmon | Seats 20 stools at the counter| Prices $5-$50 (for lobster cooked to order) | Noise rating AAA | Parking Street, difficult

Vitals 1517 Polk St., San Francisco. (415) 673-1101. Lunch Monday-Saturday. Beer and wine. Cash only. No reservations. The Crabsanthemum With Oil and Vinegar Sauce (bottom) and Dijon mayonnaise at Swan Oyster Depot, which captures the spirit of the San Francisco culinary scene.