TERRA / BAR TERRA

Each year chef Hiro Sone, known for his Western menu at Terra, which opened in 1988, is veering more toward his homeland. We are lucky he does. His chawanmushi, a savory Japanese custard that he often flavors with shrimp and lobster, is beyond compare. If you have a craving for ramen, you won’t find any better than his fragrant soup with pork jowl and trotters, topped with slices of lean meat and a half of a jidori egg. Noting that dining was becoming more casual, a few years ago Sone and his wife, Lissa Doumani, who is also the pastry chef, converted half of the more formal Terra into Bar Terra. In the Terra dining room, diners choose from a menu with approximately 13 savory items, such as abalone with scallops, escargot butter, king trumpet mushrooms and seaweed (an inspired addition); or grilled octopus with steamed clams, farro and smoked chile aioli. The historic stone building with terra cotta tile floors is perfect for the dual concept. The entrance is in the middle, with the more formal dining room on the left and the casual bar on the right. If asked, the waiters in the bar will let diners order a la carte off the dining room menu.

Cuisine Northern Californian | Specialties Terra: Sake-marinated black cod with shrimp dumplings in shiso broth; pasta with caviar and lemon-caper vinaigrette; lobster chawanmushi. Bar Terra: Radicchio salad; tempura mushrooms; ramen with pork trotters; any dessert | Seats Terra: 40. Bar Terra: 34 (plus 11 at the bar); private room for 40 | Prices Terra $85-$121 for 4 to 6 courses. Bar Terra: $16-$39 | Noise rating Terra: Bar Terra: | Parking Street, moderately difficult

Vitals 1345 Railroad Ave., St. Helena. (707) 963-8931. www.terrarestaurant.com Dinner Thursday-Monday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted.

The roasted apricots, cherry hearts, almond cake and noyaux ice cream at Bar Terra.