VIK’S CHAAT

Vinod Chopra and his wife, Indira Chopra, started serving Indian street food more than 25 years ago in the corner of a warehouse, as a way to lure customers to their retail store. After 15 years, in 2004, they expanded the dining area. Then in 2009, the restaurant and market moved to a new, brighter location with skylights and more vibrant colors. But make no mistake, it’s still a warehouse, and the aromas of coriander, cumin and cardamom continue to seduce. Over the years their son Amod Chopra has taken a more active role and became the executive chef. The lunch specials pack customers in; the specials change daily but include vegetarian, tandoori chicken, fish or lamb, served on a compartmentalized metal tray filled with the main selection, basmati rice, Indian flatbread, lentils, raita, papadum and pickles. It’s a deal for $11. Diners order at the counter and pick up from one of the stations that wrap the corner of the room. It can get hectic at peak times; on many days the staff will dish up more than 2,000 items, and they’re all consistently good.

Cuisine Indian | Specialties Cholle bhature (large basketball-size puffed puri shell with garbanzo curry), dosa, keema samosas, tandoori. | Seats 140 | Prices $6-$13.50 | Noise rating | Parking Free lot

Vitals 2390 Fourth St., Berkeley. (510) 644-4412. www.vikschaat.com. Open 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Thursday and until 8 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. No alcohol. No reservations; credit cards accepted.

Kulfi Falooda, a saffron-flavored ice cream topped with vermicelli, basil seeds and a hint of rose, is served for dessert at Vik’s Chaat.