San Francisco Chronicle

From forest to coast, it’s there to see

- TOM STIENSTRA

Deep in Big Basin Redwoods, there’s a wonderful spot where the Golden Cascade feeds through a chute and over the brink of Silver Falls. It’s one of dozens of sites in Santa Cruz County that can’t be replicated anywhere.

The landscape of the region spans from woods to water, from wilderness to waves. Much of it is spectacula­r and all of it is unique.

Why now? It’s been a hot summer in much of California, and in the past two weeks, many areas have been blanketed by smoke. Yet in this region, just over the ridge from the Bay Area, you can find cool, clean air and an array of recreation opportunit­ies. From the forests of the Santa Cruz Mountains to the beaches of northern Monterey Bay, the region provides a series of escape hatches — redwoods, beaches and coastal foothills — that are difficult to match.

If you know what you like, you are apt to find a match. Take your pick: In the deep woods, at a state beach, on the water, on the trail or on a lake. You’ll find it.

Into the woods

Big Basin Redwoods State Park (Boulder Creek): You can start with a tour through old-growth redwoods near park headquarte­rs, which can be extended 4.7 miles to Berry Creek Falls, and then on to Silver Falls and the Golden Cascade on a 12-mile loop. Outstandin­g campground­s, tent cabins and trail camps available. (831) 338-8860, www.parks.ca.gov.

Little Basin (Boulder Creek): This is the little-known recreation-based outpost of Big Basin, managed as a separate unit, with cabin rentals and access to the backcountr­y. Overnight reservatio­ns are required. Info: (831) 338-3314, http://littlebasi­n.org.

Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park (Felton): Trails go into the redwoods along the San Lorenzo River and into canyons with a remote feel. The campground is a favorite for Highway 1 travelers, only 4 miles from Santa Cruz. The park is across from Roaring Camp Railroad. (831) 335-7077, www.parks.ca.gov.

Forest of Nisene Marks (Aptos): This is a big wilderness­style park with trails that go deep into a second-growth forest to creeks and hidden waterfalls. (831) 763-7062, www.parks.ca.gov.

On the beach

On the Santa Cruz County coast, five gorgeous state beaches are nestled along the shore of Monterey Bay. In summer, when tourists from across America cruise Highway 1, RV campsites are in high demand and can be impossible to nab without a reservatio­n.

Natural Bridges (Santa Cruz): It’s one of the prettiest beaches in California, with a natural arch bridge, creek estuary, wetlands and tide pools. (831) 423-4609.

New Brighton (Capitola): It offers easy access with a popular campground for Highway 1 tourists. (831) 464-6330.

Seacliff (Aptos): Known best for the old cement ship that was severed and toppled by waves last winter, it features some of the prettiest and most expensive ($65) state park RV sites in the state; gorgeous parkway. (831) 685-6442.

Manresa (south of Aptos): It’s a beautiful expanse of beachfront with a campground. (831) 761-1795.

Sunset (south of Aptos): The campground is set on a bluff with a short walk to the beach. Open exposure to the west can yield sweeping colors at sunset. (831) 763-7062.

Informatio­n: For all California State Parks, www.parks.ca.gov.

On the water

Santa Cruz kayak rentals: Santa Cruz is a great launch point for kayaks and stand-up paddleboar­ds. You often get easy paddling in quiet water and kelp beds attract sea lions and otters. Last fall, humpback whales ranged near shore. Two good rental shops are available: Venture Quest, (831) 427-2267, www.kayaksanta­cruz.com; Kayak Connection, (831) 4791121, www.kayakconne­ction.com.

Pier/boat rentals (Capitola/ Santa Cruz): You get two rare opportunit­ies to rent a boat on the ocean. You can fish the inshore kelp beds for rockfish, white seabass and nearby for salmon or halibut. Since I was a kid, we’ve been going to Capitola Wharf to rent a boat and fish the kelp beds, the start of the Stienstra Navy. Kayak rentals also are available. Santa Cruz Boat Wharf rentals, (831) 423-1739; Capitola Wharf Boat & Bait, (831) 462-2208, www. capitolabo­atandbait.com.

Lighthouse Point/Steamer Lane Surfing (Santa Cruz): This is a landmark surfing site, complete with a museum at the lighthouse and predictabl­e decent waves. One problem is the ongoing territoria­l conflicts between local surfers and outof-towners out to share a wave. Lighthouse Field State Beach, (831) 429-2850, www.parks.ca.gov; Santa Cruz Surfing Museum at Lighthouse Point, (831) 420-6289, www.santacruzs­urfingmuse­um.org. Stagnaro fishing/whale watching (Santa Cruz):

Stagnaro is a landmark name; generation­s have taken thousands on deep-sea fishing trips, whale watching and bay cruises on Monterey Bay. Info: (831) 2052380, www.stagnaros.com, www.santacruzw­halewatchi­ng.com.

On the trail

Castle Rock State Park (Skyline Ridge): A gorgeous hike goes past a spur to a waterfall and past the base of Goat Rock for a panorama to the west of redwood-filled valleys and across to Santa Cruz and Monterey Bay. (408) 867-2952, www.parks.ca.gov.

Wilder Ranch State Park (Santa Cruz): This is one of the best parks for mountain biking anywhere, with terraced hills providing spots for climbs and rests. The payoff is views across Monterey Bay and out to the ocean. (831) 423-9703, www.parks.ca.gov.

Rancho del Oso (Davenport): This is an outstandin­g coastal trailhead for a mountain bike ride along Waddell Creek — up and down four hills — to bike racks, where you can lock up and make a short walk to Berry Creek Falls. Within close range of the parking area is a lagoon, estuary and meadow for wildlife viewing. A beach is directly across the highway. (831) 4272288, www.ranchodelo­so.org.

Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail: This is a great 29.5-mile hike from Castle Rock State Park through Big Basin Redwoods to Rancho del Oso, with trail camps along the way. A fantastic three-day, two-night trip — mostly downhill — is the best long-distance one-way hike in region. (831) 338-8861, www.parks.ca.gov.

On the lake

Pinto Lake (Watsonvill­e): This is a small, pretty lake with a marina for rentals of small rowboats and boats with electric motors. Most visitors fish for small bass. An RV park is available on the property. Pinto Lake County Park, Santa Cruz County Parks, (831) 454-7938, www.scparks.com — click on “Parks.”

Loch Lomond Recreation Area (Zayante): This lake can rate a 10. It’s a jewel nestled in a redwood canyon. Boat rentals provide access, including to a small island with a picnic table. A hiking trail runs along the lake, easy and pretty, then turns and climbs the ridge overlookin­g the lake. Loch Lomond Recreation Area, (831) 335-7424, www.cityofsant­acruz.com — click on “Parks & Recreation.” Tom Stienstra is the outdoors writer for The Chronicle. His outdoors report can be heard at 7:35 a.m., 9:35 a.m. and 12:35 p.m. Saturdays on KCBS (740 and 106.9). Email: tstienstra@sfchronicl­e.com Twitter: @StienstraT­om

 ?? Marcio Jose Sanchez / Associated Press ?? A photo taken with a long exposure shows off the grandeur of Natural Bridges State Beach in Santa Cruz.
Marcio Jose Sanchez / Associated Press A photo taken with a long exposure shows off the grandeur of Natural Bridges State Beach in Santa Cruz.
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