San Francisco Chronicle

California cuisine

- The Charter Oak: 1050 Charter Oak, St. Helena; (707) 302-6996; www.thecharter­oak.com. Solbar: 755 Silverado Trail, Calistoga; (707) 226-0850; www. sol age. auberge resorts.com/dine

“When I like the food, I talk to the chef — I’m crazy about chefs and California cuisine,” Manetti Shrem says. Two of her current favorites to speak with are Christophe­r Kostow, who left Meadowood to open the Charter Oak in June, and Massimo Falsini, formerly of Harry’s Bar in Rome who became executive chef of Solbar at Solage last spring. “These chefs only want to use local products,” she says. “They have freshness and creativity, and they are dedicated.”

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