A cruise back in time on the USS Potomac

Huddled in their warmest Bay Area layers, about 100 people lined up at a Jack London Square boat dock to board the USS Potomac on a sunny Sunday morning. Along the ship’s starboard walkway, a group of volunteer docents dressed as historic figures greeted each guest as, one by one, we stepped aboard President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s historic former yacht. Eleanor Roosevelt, Shanghai Kelly, Amelia Earhart and Emperor Norton waved their welcomes, each volunteer as giddy as an actor on opening night.

Sunday, April 22, was opening day on San Francisco Bay and as has been their tradition, the staff and volunteers of the nonprofit that operates the Potomac had organized a three-hour cruise from Oakland, under the Bay Bridge, around Angel Island and over to Tiburon for a multidenominational blessing. A parade of boats along San Francisco’s waterfront rounded out the $80 cruise, along with box lunches and lots of history lessons. If the views weren’t enough, the people-watching on the Potomac was downright spectacular.

Those who’d cruised on the Potomac before knew to arrive early — the boat’s best seats were a select collection of wicker chaises and chairs at the rear of the shaded main deck. These wise folks, some in motion-sickness armbands, were not shy about making a beeline for their favorite seats. This prime area was set up with a gorgeous glass water dispenser, complete with fresh lemon slices. The rest of us called dibs on white folding chairs lined along the yacht’s top deck. And really, all of the Potomac is pretty gorgeous. Built in the 1930s, the crisp 165-foot boat glistens in bright white and shiny wood.

The boat’s dining room had been transformed into a gift shop, where diehards purchased USS Potomac fleece vests and USS Potomac baby-size Tshirts. And guests were welcome to tour the vintage vessel’s many historically interesting nooks and crannies provided we used the public restrooms and not the nonoperational toilets in some of the bedrooms. Fair enough.

History buffs will want to check out Chronicle library director Bill Van Niekerken’s excellent and worthy history of the Potomac, published last year. The boat was, in addition to serving Roosevelt during his presidency, formerly owned by Elvis Presley and later, a collection of local drug smugglers. All of these details were alluded to on our cruise during a series of interviews between docent Ron Ucovich and his merry characters.

Ucovich is a delightful character himself. In his boat anchor necktie and USS Potomac cap, he patiently and dutifully shared his vast knowledge into a weathered microphone and through a series of speakers throughout almost the entire trip. Occasionally, Ucovich knew more about the characters he was interviewing than the characters themselves. On more than once occasion, I thrilled at spotting Ucovich whisper an answer after he’d asked a question. Moments like these — sweet and familiar — come a dime a dozen on the Potomac.

“This is one of the most fun days for the docents because they get to dress up and be our stars,” said USS Potomac Executive Director Domini Maffei Schmid. “They work so hard all year. This is their day to shine.”

Docent Betsy Pfaff was celebrating her final cruise as a volunteer. Confident and quick on her feet, Pfaff rarely needed to brace herself on a railing during even the choppiest parts of our cruise. Instead, she delivered instructions and information over the single shared microphone. Toward the end of the ride, fellow docents sang her a farewell song before Pfaff took the mike back for her detailed instructions about lost and found.

These sun-kissed volunteers, many of whom donned wigs and borderline-accurate costumes for the occasion, were a tight-knit crew of history and maritime enthusiasts. Their vibe was far more quirky and small town that it was bigcity boat tour, and their energy was both endearing and welcome. Opening day was just the first of many Potomac cruises throughout the season, including thrice-weekly bay tours, musical “Blues Cruises” and holiday-themed excursions in December. Schmid estimates that this year, around 2,400 fourth- and fifthgraders will hop aboard as well.

“We’re so tired of being the best-kept secret on the bay,” announced Pfaff, inbetween Ucovich’s interviews with Alma Spreckels and a cigarette-chomping FDR impersonator.

Pfaff had a point. Our Sunday cruise aboard the Potomac was unexpectedly charming and old-fashioned, perhaps unintentionally so. I’m certainly glad I stumbled aboard and I’m quite confident I’ll be back — ready as ever to beat you to the best seats.

All of the Potomac is pretty gorgeous. Built in the 1930s, the crisp 165-foot boat glistens in bright white and shiny wood.