Romantic supper club in the Tenderloin
This is Chronicle restaurant critic Michael Bauer’s column in which he revisits a restaurant. Here, he updates his previous review of Black Cat in San Francisco.
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Moving from the light-filled bar at Black Cat, with its storefront windows overlooking the urban scene on Eddy Street, to the downstairs jazz club and restaurant is like entering a dimly lit cave.
One can almost sense what it must have felt like in the 1950s to join other jazz fans as the trio grooves, riffs and blows. The cluttered streets of the Tenderloin right outside the door reinforce this clandestine vibe. Today, of course, there’s no fog of cigarette smoke, a concession to the no-smoking laws of the 1990s.
Black Cat, which opened two years ago, is not only a place for music fans. It might top the list of most romantic spots in San Francisco, if the four couples constantly sharing kisses on a recent visit is any indication. The interior is a blend of sophistication and shabby chic, with a few nooks and crannies and loads of banquette space where couples can cuddle side by side.
When I reviewed the restaurant soon after it opened, the food was the last reason to head to Eddy Street. Since then there have been several chef changes, but that all seems to have been for the good. Now Tu David Phu and Robert Hurtado are in the kitchen; they launched their new menu last month.
If you go on weekends, in particular, it’s good to know that the food has improved. On Friday and Saturday, there’s not only the entertainment charge, which is $10 to $20 a person depending on the group, but also a $20-a-person food minimum earlier in the evening at tables, and a $25 food and beverage minimum per person later. On most nights there are two groups playing, so there’s nearly a continuous show. The website makes clear that tables are reserved for two hours, and maybe a little more for large parties. However, the staff will try to accommodate longer stays, according to owner Fritz Quattlebaum. And if diners have to vacate a table, they can always go to the bar, directly behind the dining tables, and continue to enjoy the scenery. During the week the policy is more relaxed.
In the upstairs bar, diners can also order off the downstairs menu. In May, Chris Amirault, most recently from Otium in Los Angeles, is planning to introduce a new cocktail program that will feature nine cocktails inspired by nine jazz destinations.
The menu is eclectic with global influences, but the one thing all the dishes have in common is that the flavors are bold enough to compete with the show unfolding onstage.
The Bites section of the menu includes oysters ($18 for 6), popcorn ($6), an impressive ice mound filled with raw vegetables with Parmesan crema ($15), and fried cauliflower ($14) with its crisp, sturdy coating. It’s served with curry and wasabi aioli.
This section is also the home of Angus sliders ($18), and a sirloin banh mi ($20) layered with spicy kimchi, pickled carrots, daikon, cucumbers and rings of jalapeños. It hits all the right notes — a dish I’d reorder on my next visit.
With this type of venue, these Bites and the Small Plates are a good way to go, and there’s plenty of options for vegetarians. You’ll also find baby kale Caesar ($14), Mayan ceviche tostada ($18) and a generous bowl of mussels bathed in a broth with basil, lemongrass and ginger. The broth had a pleasing acid kick, although a few slices of grilled bread would have been a good way to pay tribute to the leftovers.
The five main courses include Saigon bouillabaisse ($32); scallops Rockefeller with nasturtium pistou ($28); a lamb burger ($20); and a New York strip steak ($36). We ended up going for the California
curry ($19), a medley of vegetables in a green curry creamy with coconut milk. Grilled bread was a surprise at the bottom of the bowl, as it quickly absorbed the spicy sauce. We also added the optional grilled chicken skewers ($9), with a pleasingly caramelized crust and grill-blackened patches.
When it came to dessert, we were equally impressed with the pecan tart ($12) topped with a small scoop of ice cream.
The bar and wine program has always been a strength and continues under Zach Pace, with most cocktails costing $15. In addition, the service that used to be scattered seems now to be well paced, and the servers are friendly and accommodating.
Black Cat has greatly improved since it opened. It’s a fun — though not inexpensive — way to spend an evening.
Michael Bauer is The San Francisco Chronicle restaurant critic and editor at large. Email: mbauer@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @michaelbauer1 Instagram: @michaelbauer1