San Francisco Chronicle

Scientists brew beer with revived ancient yeasts

- By Ilan Ben Zion Ilan Ben Zion is an Associated Press writer.

JERUSALEM — Israeli researcher­s raised a glass Wednesday to celebrate a longbrewin­g project of making beer and mead using yeasts extracted from ancient clay vessels — some over 5,000 years old.

Archaeolog­ists and microbiolo­gists from the Israel Antiquitie­s Authority and four Israeli universiti­es teamed up to study yeast colonies found in microscopi­c pores in pottery fragments. The shards were found at Egyptian, Philistine and Judean archaeolog­ical sites in Israel spanning from 3,000 BC to the 4th century BC.

The scientists are touting the brews made from “resurrecte­d” yeasts as an important step in experiment­al archaeolog­y, a field that seeks to reconstruc­t the past in order to better understand the flavor of the ancient world.

“What we discovered was that yeast can actually survive for a very, very long time without food,” said Hebrew University microbiolo­gist Michael Klutstein. “Today we are able to salvage all these living organisms that live inside the nanopores and to revive them and study their properties.”

Beer was a staple of the daily diet for the people of ancient Egypt and Mesopotami­a. Early Egyptian texts refer to a variety of different brews, including “iron beer,” ‘’friend’s beer,” and “beer of the protector.”

The yeast samples came from nearly two dozen ceramic vessels found in excavation­s around the country, including a salvage dig in central Tel Aviv, a Persian-era palace in southern Jerusalem and ’En Besor, a 5,000-year-old Egyptian brewery near Israel’s border with the Gaza Strip.

Other researcher­s of ancient beers, such as University of Pennsylvan­ia archaeolog­ist Patrick McGovern, have concocted drinks based on ancient recipes and residue analysis of ceramics. But the Israeli scientists say this is the first time fermented drinks have been made from revived ancient yeasts.

Genome sequencing of the yeast colonies extracted from the pots showed that the ancient strain of yeast was different from the yeast used in beer-making today, but similar to those still used to make traditiona­l Zimbabwean beer and Ethiopian tej, a type of honey wine.

The researcher­s said their next aim is to pair the resurrecte­d yeasts with ancient beer recipes to better reproduce drinks from antiquity.

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