San Francisco Chronicle

Brewpub touted as nation’s first has served its last

- By Sam Whiting Sam Whiting is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: swhiting@sfchronicl­e.com Twitter: @SamWhiting­SF

Buffalo Bill’s Brewery, a Hayward institutio­n touted as the first brewpub in America, has closed after nearly 40 years.

Owner Geoff Harries announced the closure Wednesday on Buffalo Bill’s Facebook page.

“Sadly, Buffalo Bill’s Brewery is officially closed until the next passing of the mash paddle of this historic and special place,” wrote Harries, who started out as assistant brewmaster at Bill’s. “Thank you all so much for the support over the years. It has been an incredible and wonderful journey.” He did not immediatel­y respond to a request for further comment.

Buffalo Bill’s was founded in 1983 by Bill Owens, a freelance news photograph­er who earned national fame with his book “Suburbia,” a send-up of newly developed housing tracts in Livermore that has sold 50,000 copies since its publicatio­n in 1973. He also documented his coverage of the infamous and deadly Rolling Stones concert in “Altamont 1969,” published in 2019.

Owens opened Buffalo Bill’s at 1082 B St. downtown after being laid off from the Livermore Independen­t newspaper. He raised $92,000 through a limited partnershi­p of 32 investors.

“I was a home brewer all of my life,” said Owens, 84, a 30-year Hayward resident. “I heard California law was changing to allow beer that you brewed yourself to be sold commercial­ly. The law passed in January, in 1983, and I opened in September.”

Owens, who was both brewmaster and bartender, served the beer directly from the tank, without first drawing it into kegs. It came directly from the source through a 62-foot line.

“I could pour 3,000 glasses without changing the tap.”

Owens said he was the first to brew pumpkin ale along with another specialty he called “Alimony Ale, because it was the bitterest beer in America.” He always had an amber, a lager and a porter on tap.

“People came from all over the country and from Europe to see what we were doing,” he said. “Now there are 9,000 microbrewe­ries in the country,” a fact he knows as publisher of American Brewer and Distiller magazines, along with some 30 how-to books on beer making and distilling.

“Draft Beer in 10 Days” was his top seller. In 1997, he sold Buffalo Bill’s to Harries for $92,000 — exactly what he paid for it. It was closed during the pandemic and reopened with limited hours, Owens said.

In 2017, Buffalo Bill’s was honored by the National Museum of American History at the Smithsonia­n for being “the most historic brewpub in America,” Harries noted in his posting. But Buffalo Bill’s was hit hard during the pandemic.

“I came close to bankruptcy several times, digging out with credit cards, refinancin­g my home and risking everything,” Harries wrote. “But, I always found a way out and a way back on the path to success and preserving this very special place.”

Owens, meanwhile, just finished work on a graphic novel about a pandemic that is set in a bar in Hayward. Called “The Delco Years,” it will be published in July and includes 14 characters Owens met at Buffalo Bill’s.

 ?? Laura Morton / Special to The Chronicle 2016 ?? Geoff Harries, owner of the venerable Buffalo Bill’s Brewery in Hayward, announced on Facebook the closure of the brewpub after almost 40 years.
Laura Morton / Special to The Chronicle 2016 Geoff Harries, owner of the venerable Buffalo Bill’s Brewery in Hayward, announced on Facebook the closure of the brewpub after almost 40 years.

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