Brian and Stephanie Ter­rizzi

GIORNATA, BROAD­SIDE

San Francisco Chronicle - - FOOD + HOME -

By no means new­com­ers, Brian and Stephanie Ter­rizzi of Paso Robles nev­er­the­less don’t get enough ac­claim for their work — both with Giornata, their Ital­ian-grape la­bel; and Broad­side, their in­ex­pen­sive line of Cen­tral Coast wines that might rep­re­sent the best value propo­si­tion in Cal­i­for­nia.

“I was told for a very long time that I’d never do any­thing in­ter­est­ing with Ital­ian va­ri­etals in Cal­i­for­nia,” says Brian. But the cou­ple — he the wine­maker, she the viti­cul­tur­ist, both trained at Fresno State — loved the Neb­bi­olo grape too much to give up on it. They’ve now found a range of sites around Paso Robles with com­pelling ver­sions of Aglian­ico, San­giovese, and, es­pe­cially, Neb­bi­olo. Giornata’s struc­tured, acid-driven wines be­lie the as­sump­tion that Paso is too hot to grow these grapes. Be­sides, the Ter­rizzis say, their vine­yards’ soil has a lot in com­mon with that of Chi­anti.

The Giornata wines are at the high­est qual­ity tier of Ital­ian-style wines in this state. But the Ter­rizzis de­cided to tackle a very dif­fer­ent chal­lenge, too: “We have so many great, un­der-$15 wines from Spain, Ar­gentina,” says Stephanie, “but it’s hard to find that in Cal­i­for­nia.” Hence Broad­side, a 30,000case op­er­a­tion that they first launched with Chris Brock­way of Broc Cel­lars. (The Ter­rizzis bought him out two years ago.) Stylis­ti­cally ac­ces­si­ble and priced be­low $30, the Broad­side bot­tlings out­shine many wines dou­ble their price.

More than any­thing, the Ter­rizzis be­lieve in Paso. Stephanie is an out­spo­ken ad­vo­cate for im­prov­ing en­vi­ron­men­tal stan­dards there. “I just want Paso to do bet­ter,” says Brian. “I think Paso could be the best viti­cul­tural re­gion in the whole state.”

Wines to try: The Ter­rizzis’ port­fo­lio is an em­bar­rass­ment of riches. Look for Broad­side’s su­perb Chardon­nays (the 2014 “Wild Fer­ment,” $18, trop­i­cal and full of brûléed pineap­ple; the 2013 White Hawk Vine­yard, $30, rich, min­eral and saline) and Caber­nets (the blue-fruited, dense 2014 Paso

Robles, $18; the mouth­fill­ing, firm 2013 Mar­garita Vine­yard, $25). From Giornata, there’s a suc­cu­lent, peachy 2015 Fi­ano ($25), a taut, lifted 2015

Bar­bera ($25), and a leafy, cigar-in­flected 2013 Neb­bi­olo from Luna Matta ($45), bright with cherry and chewy with tan­nins.

Ju­lia P. Gar­rett

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