Santa Barbara Life & Style Magazine
64 | OPEN ROAD
A socially-distanced California road trip from Tahoe to Santa Monica
Follow along as we trade the solitude of our own homes for the serenity of nature.
It’s day 120 of lockdown and the walls of my apartment—once reserved for sleeping and packing suitcases—are getting a little too familiar. I’m craving open space and nature. A change of scenery. A road trip sounds like just the thing. So my coworker Silas and I plan a two week California road trip, spanning from Lake Tahoe to Santa Monica, from safe haven to safe haven. We handpick luxurious properties where nature is at the forefront of activities and social distancing is innate. On a Monday morning, we check out an Audi S6 Prestige sedan for an extended test drive, pack enough for a month into the trunk (mostly his camera gear and my shoes) and are off. First stop: Wylder Hope Valley.
Seven hours later, we near South Lake Tahoe and towering pine trees jutt up from the landscape. The Audi glides along the winding mountain roads with ease, throwbacks pumping through the Bang & Olufsen speakers. The S6’s user-friendly tech, red leather interior, and 444 horsepower ensure that getting there is half the fun. We pull over by a river and shuffle down the slope to the crystal clear water rushing through the forest. I hop along the rocks before grabbing my bikini to go for a swim. With no people around and just the sound of the rapids, it’s only day one and I’m already getting the recharge and uplift I needed.
We pull up to Wylder Hope Valley and are greeted with a friendly, “Hey I’m Rick, I’ll show you to your yurt.” We pass The General Store and Rick notes, “They have baked goods, beer and wine. There’s WiFi at the store but once you go down the hill to the campground the WiFi drops out, sometimes I think that’s a good thing.” He points out a swimming hole in the river as we approach seven brand new yurts. The historic Sierra Nevada property has been around since 1926 and was renovated this year. Nestled in aspens, the yurts are the most luxurious version of tents I’ve ever seen.
My yurt has all the desirable aspects of glamping—woodsy surroundings, a fire pit, a skylight to see the brilliant stars, yet doesn’t look out of place with a new Audi parked next to it. The interior decor is clean with almost a Japanese influence, and the freestanding tub is a giveaway that this is not roughing it.
We head back to the cabin area of Wylder to the property’s restaurant, Sorensen’s Cafe, for dinner. We sit at a picnic table on the deck, wool blankets cover the benches. Nearby a campfire crackles. A friendly server in a mask and hiking boots takes our order for a Skinny Margarita, Old Fashioned, Chicken Marsala, Eggplant Parmesan, and their famous Beef Burgundy Stew.
The drinks arrive from behind a bar made from a 100 year old tree, followed shortly by our meal. We watch a couple energetic girls in PJs with their grandparents by the campfire. They're jumping around, roasting jumbo marshmallows, and enjoying their fifth marshmallow as much as the first.
After a wholesome dinner, we return to the campground. A neon pink sunset swiped across the sky casts a blush glow on the yurts. We make the most of the lack of cell service and play backgammon by the campfire. As the temperature drops, I settle into the cloud-like bed under a gray linen duvet. It’s so comfortable it could be in a 5-star hotel. The skylight illuminated with stars makes it even better.
I wake up to the dome filled with light. We return to Sorensen’s Cafe for breakfast. The french toast is Silas’ favorite meal of the entire trip. My hearty omelet is the perfect start to a day spent outside.
After cleaning our plates, we hike up Popo’s Trail. The trailhead is past the cabins and behind a wooden swing set. We wind up the mountain, passing through meadows of wildflowers with swallowtail butterflies dancing around. The summit overlooks all of Hope Valley. I carefully climb out to the point of the cliff to take in the view. On the way down a couple mountain bikers dart by, other than that I don’t see a single person. The rest of the day we have no plans but to find a lake to jump into.
A fifth generation local directs us to Meadow Lake. After hiking several miles we are rewarded with a sapphire blue lake. A couple trees breach out from the water, there’s a rock island in the middle, just big enough to tan on if you’re up for a short swim. It’s scenic and deserted. Nothing like an expansive view of a lake to swallow your memory of the latest headlines.
A thunderstorm prompts us to return to Wylder. We stop at the property’s sauna before swinging by The General Store for beer and freshly baked banana bread. I would have happily stayed another week at this secluded alternative to Tahoe. The next afternoon, we leave for Napa, winding past roads with quaint names like Dew Drop and Sugar Pine.
Vineyards signal our imminent arrival to Calistoga Ranch, An Auberge Resort. Initial impression: it’s more woodsy than Napa’s wine focus would lead you to expect, making you feel like you could be 100 miles from the nearest store, not 15 minutes from world renowned wineries. Check-in is a breeze and within minutes I am settling into our redwood lodge. The freestanding one bedroom suite has as much outdoor living space as indoor. The front deck has a jacuzzi, seating area, and fireplace that connects to the indoor living room. The back deck has my favorite aspect: an outdoor shower. Surrounding oak trees afford the utmost privacy.
After unpacking, we head straight for the pool. Various greenery ensconces the pool area with voluminous white flowers. Each pair of chaise lounges has its own secluded area, separated by planters. I unwind and take in the views of pine tree covered hills. The music wafting through the atmosphere sounds as if they are playing our playlists. The only thing that could make it better? Fish tacos. The three mini Baja Fish Tacos are the perfect amount of spicy, and as I finish the server comes by with skewers of frozen grapes, a refreshing palate cleanser. When we’ve had enough lounging, Silas hits the open-air gym while I rinse off in the outdoor shower, the sun a natural towel warmer.
Now, you can’t go to Napa and not sip wine in a vineyard. Luckily, no need to leave the resort for the quintessential wine country experience. We grab the welcome bottle of Calistoga Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon from the room, pick a table in on-property Sotero’s Vineyard, and play backgammon until it’s time for dinner.
We walk up to The Lakehouse restaurant and are seated on the balcony. The lake and surrounding forested hills span the spectrum of green. The atmosphere is rustic, there is nothing glossy in sight. The antique silverware, wood tables, and ceramics are all matte— bread plates depicting a sliced tree trunk.
I scan a QR code with my phone to access the farm-sourced menu. We start with the Shaved Summer Squash & Zucchini Salad and the Grilled Cucumber & Peach Salad. The peaches are so good that I insist they make an appearance in everything I order. I add vodka to the seasonal mocktail of K&J peaches, lemon, rosemary, and Fever Tree soda. Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with pecan crumble and peach cremeux is the finale of a meal brimming with local produce.
The Specialty Popcorn section of the room service menu caught my eye earlier, so I make a call on the walk back to our lodge and arrive at the same time as a bucket of fresh popcorn. Movie night has a new standard that will never be met.
Calistoga Ranch TEDDYS The Butterfly Sunglasses, teddyseyewear.com
Picking resorts with exceptional restaurants was key, to keep our “social distance.” Yet as I'd already ordered every menu item with peaches at Calistoga Ranch, the next night we make the seven minute drive to Solage, An Auberge Resort for dinner at Solbar. The atmosphere is modern and bright. Sitting outside amongst trees draped in lights, next to a fountain with fire in the middle, I sip on a Green Flash—a neon concoction with tequila, housemade jalapeño herb syrup, and lime.
My eyes go straight to the peaches on the menu: juicy chunks of K&J peaches, with prosciutto woven between, served over dollops of parmesan mousse and sweet caramelized onions, sprinkled with arugula and honey-lavender. The variety of textures and salty-sweet juxtaposition with a touch of lavender is heavenly. This appetizer turns out to be my favorite dish of the trip and our entrees aren't far behind. We’re thoroughly impressed by the New York Steak with Jerusalem artichokes, local porcini mushrooms, sunflower persillade, and black truffle fondue, and Half Moon Bay Petrel Sole with confit of summer squash, toasted pepita seed pesto, and squash blossoms. We conclude with the K&J Orchards Stone Fruit dessert—apricots and nectarines mingle with toasted pistachios and whipped ricotta. The fruit is so good I look up the farm towards the end of dinner.
On a trip where adventure and isolation are our primary motivations, a midnight soak in Calistoga Ranch’s hot tub (open 24 hours) to watch the stars is the perfect nightcap.
I wake up early to birds chirping. Deer play peek-a-boo behind the agave outside the window as I make tea in the room. The morning light streaming through trees onto the deck is an invitation to stay for room service.
I’m giddy as I remove the silver lids to reveal breakfast. Silas pours syrup on his stack of three buttermilk pancakes bursting with blueberries. He jokes that if he took a drone shot you’d still be able to see the pancakes. They’re that big and fluffy. I slice into my Huevos Rancheros and egg yolk seeps out from the center of the stack—farm fresh from the chickens housed on property. The fresh fruit plate presentation is a work of modern art with varying elevations and accents of fruit puree. For "dessert," I unfurl the Cinnamon Roll, my fingers dripping in gooey frosting with vanilla bean specks. Come time to pack up and check out, it takes all the willpower I have to pull myself away from the spread.
Windy roads lined with olive trees, wildflowers, and vineyards lead us out of Napa. Further south, we pass through cities and agricultural land, until reaching Carmel Valley Ranch. Upon arrival, I meander to the garden to join the daily tour. It is exploding with flowers from dahlias to pastel yellow roses. The blooms are so fragrant I can smell them through my mask. Fruit trees teeming with apples and plums fill the orchard, yet the main attraction is a pile of baby white Swiss goats, born two weeks earlier. Adorable would be an understatement.
Walking back from the garden I wander around to get a lay of the land. The grounds feel like a camp with so many outdoor activities, from tennis and golf to hiking trails. Lavender flourishes throughout and turkeys and deer roam the pathways like fellow guests.
Past a swing hanging from a giant oak I find a gated lawn surrounded by vineyards. We pick up a picnic and a bottle of wine at Valley Kitchen and bring it back for a picturesque lunch. I savor Mary’s Free-Range Chicken Sandwich—a baguette loaded thick with avocado, roasted chicken, bacon, tomato, and parmesan pesto. Silas saves the brownies and chocolate chip cookies to enhance tonight’s s’mores.
During dinner at Valley Kitchen looking across the table at Silas’ Braised Beet Salad, I laugh at the realization that it’s the first time I’ve seen lettuce in a while; Carmel Valley Ranch has the healthiest menu options we’ve encountered on the trip. Silas gets the Green Garden Curry, a rainbow of fresh veggies over jasmine rice and a slightly spicy aromatic curry. I order the Day Boat Scallops placed on a bed of corn and grape tomato succotash. The intense sweet corn flavor and bursting tomatoes taste like summer on a plate. Our health kick lasts all of 30 minutes, until it’s time to put the brownies to use.
From 6 to 10 nightly, guests breeze through the lobby to pick up complimentary s’more kits and take to the outdoor fire pits. Silas layers a brownie into a s’more, melted chocolate oozing over the marshmallows. He says the french toast was the best meal of the trip but his reaction implies this s’more is the best thing he’s tasted in his life.
Carmel Valley Ranch picnic
The next morning I wake up to a view of the valley, the fireplace flickering in my spacious one-bedroom suite. We spend the morning poolside, reading beneath orange umbrellas, before continuing south on Highway 1.
Approaching Big Sur, I roll down the windows to let the smell of redwoods and salty air float through the car. The full campgrounds and closures of main attractions like Mc Way Falls encourage us to find beauty in new spots. We stop at a pullout to stretch. Waves foam over offshore rocks and I scan the kelp beds for otters. I could stand there mesmerized by the ocean all day, but we want to make it to Santa Monica by sunset.
We drive down PCH, admiring the homes. Only to arrive at Hotel Casa Del Mar, which surpasses all dream beach house fantasies I’d conjured passing though Malibu. The brick facade of the hotel and the staff greeting me by name sets the tone for the sophisticated yet comfortable experience to come. I swing open the door to my one bedroom beachfront corner suite and am looking directly at the ocean. The views from the wrap around windows span from
Venice to the Santa Monica Pier and beyond. Books, from antique Plato's The Republic to cheeky novels like I’m Having So Much Fun Here Without You, fill the living area, alongside candles, coral, and plush seating. I’m assuming the binoculars are provided to watch boats, but I quickly put them to use to get a closer look at photoshoots, people riding tandem bikes alone, and rollerbladers.
Preferring the entertainment of the boardwalk from six floors above the action, I consult the room service menu and settle on Roasted Mushroom Pizza, topped with sauteed wild mushrooms, burrata, and sage. The dessert menu is titled ‘never forget something sweet’ and, not one to disagree, add the Ricotta Cheesecake topped with berries. It pairs perfectly with the palm tree framed view of a pastel sunset.
About to hop in the marble shower, the rubber duckie wearing a snorkel perched on the edge of the bathtub reminds me that a bath is always the better choice. The bath bomb from the toiletries mini bar, tea lights, and Malin+Goetz rum bubble bath affirm it was the right decision.
After allowing the waves to act as my alarm clock the next morning, we walk next door to Casa Del Mar’s sister property Shutters on the Beach for Lemon Ricotta Pancakes at Coast restaurant. Post breakfast, we rent bikes right outside, mini Shutters license plates swing behind the seats as we ride along the boardwalk to Venice. When the pavement ends, we return to Casa Del Mar for an afternoon at the pool—the perfect perch to enjoy both the beach and safety of the hotel.
Just down the dramatic double staircases is dinner at Terrazza. I savor the ultimate oceanfront meal: Seared Chilean Sea Bass surrounded by Manila clams and leeks bathing in a green parsley sauce. The Santa Monica Pier ferris wheel lights spin in the background as we cheers The Better Gin & Tonic and a Tequila Honeysuckle (St Germain, tequila, grapefruit, and honey) to the last night of our trip.
When check-out time looms, we play tetris with our suitcases and the valet offers to help. I explain that we are at the tail end of a two week road trip and there’s a method to our organization. “Two week road trip in the Audi?!” He seems surprised. “You must get everywhere really fast.” I laugh, if he only knew. “It was a smooth ride just coming around the corner but that’s got some power,” the valet observes. I concur, the S6 is not ostentatious but drives like it could be.
We make one last stop before home; I can’t leave LA without lunch at one of my favorite places, The Roof Garden at Peninsula Beverly Hills. The yellow and white striped umbrellas and pool views make you feel like you’re on vacation. The Santa Barbara Salmon with asparagus, radish, salmon roe and dill is the perfect segue between an indulgent getaway and home.
I return to Santa Barbara refreshed and safe, with a heightened appreciation for properties that offer rooms so spacious I would happily shelter in place for any extent of time. Distancing regulations encouraged me to see a typical road trip route from a different perspective, to stop at places that aren’t the most geotagged, and spend more time in California’s beautiful nature. I’m wholeheartedly adopting this new way of traveling that encourages you to discover less populated places, slow down, and order more room service. *
“I swing open the door to my one bedroom beachfront corner suite and am looking directly at the ocean. The views from the wrap around windows span from Venice to the Santa Monica Pier and beyond.”