72 | NOTHING LIKE NAPA

Pair your wine with fine dining, painting classes, and bike tours.

In spite of both of us being avid travelers and self-proclaimed vinos, the NORCAL gem had yet to be crossed off of our bucket lists. Nestled amid rolling vineyards, where sunrays seemingly never cease to drench the scene, our home for the next two nights is a paradoxical blend of quaint opulence. The resort appears more like a mini-community, than a quiet place to rest one’s head after a long day of wine tasting. With three restaurants, two pools, a spa, various gardens and fruit trees, and in-room on-tap wine, Carneros really has everything—especially for a mid-pandemic getaway.

With the windows down and the dreamiest playlist pulsing from the car, my girl friend and I pull up to Carneros Resort and Spa with uncontrollable glee.

Carneros Resort and Spa

Our cottage, in the aromatic Lavender sector of the resort, is brimming with light thanks to our very own backyard garden, equipped with a sundeck, firepit, and outdoor tub and shower. It’s a rustic dream. To unwind before dinner, we make our way to the pool where signature tangerine accents pop against the water. Its sleek minimalism contrasted by a backdrop of vineyards and flaxen fields creates a surreal environment. With a frozé in hand and my feet dangling in the hot tub it feels like a vacation—an escape from a less than ideal reality.

As golden hour spills over the road we marvel at the vast valleys that cradle the route to Brix. The restaurant is set on a whopping 16 acres—10 of which are home to Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Given the regulations, we are sat outside, which to our delight is the place to be. Rows of veggies and herbs grow side-by-side to multicolored roses in the garden, where couples and groups cheerfully sip on an assortment of wines, set to a vineyard backdrop. The array of green shades playfully dance in the evening breeze, and though the dining area is full, the generously spaced out tables form a tranquil setting. Our waitress guides us through the naturally farm-to-table menu, offering recommendations with the type of enthusiasm that you know you can trust, and we let her take the wheel. Halfway

through my refreshing Blueberry-Ginger Bramble cocktail arrives the Halibut Ceviche and Dungeness Crab Fondue (two words I could never resist). Plated in chic Japanese-inspired style, the velvety ceviche is surrounded by a black brushed-on sauce; it’s light with an awakening hint of tart passion fruit. Simply delicious. The fondue resembles a rich lobster bisque, and we nearly fight over the last bite, yet are saved by our respective entrees; the Grilled Prime Ribeye for my friend, and the Braised Short Rib for me. Although our norm is to chatter through a meal with echoing laughter, our common silence is reflective of the dishes and their paired 2012 “Brix Vineyard” Cabernet, grown just a stone’s throw from our seats. Cab is the theme of the night, the au jus in my dish reminds me with every decadent bite that rolls off of the cut. To our reluctance—due to having finished every last bit of our dinner, it’s time for dessert. If you’re like us and committed to indulging, get the Butterscotch Pot de Crème and trade your spoon for the toffee-hazelnut bark— you're welcome.

Our morning begins with a less than obvious activity for Napa: a painting class at Jessel Gallery. The studio, which doubles as a gallery and eclectic boutique filled with antiques, vintage gowns, and of course art of various mediums, has been serving the Napa Valley since 1984. Jessel, the owner, head artist, and our teacher for the day, guides us through a playful three-step process. For her, art is about fun and freedom, just like our session. I lose myself in a ménage of colors, as my flowing strokes leave a rainbow-mess across the canvas. In-between sparingly delivered directions—meant to allow students to use their own creative liberties—Jessel shares her background and in a sense, her transcendent process.

I’m quite impressed with my Pollocklike cluster of colors, until inevitably Jessel tells us it’s time to mess them up—step two. While I always knew art had therapeutic qualities, the process of creating chaos, letting go of attachment to a particular outcome, and of course escaping into my imagination, is the mental getaway I’d been seeking for months. The class seemed symbolic of how to deal with the chaos of the world today... all while providing a self-made souvenir; a kaleidoscopic collection of vibrance and ferocity.

With no time to spare—today is jampacked—we head to Napa Valley Bike Tours. We get two electric bikes and we’re off, on our way to Domaine Chandon. Pro tip: bike to wine tastings so you feel less guilt about your wine and paired-charcuterie consumption. The winery’s lush vine-covered building, which dates back to 1977, sits atop a hill surrounded by none other than grapes—rows and rows of ripening variations. Our host, and resident Wine

Educator Brian, guides us through the dreamy oak-filled lawn to a picnic setup equipped with local artisanal favorites. The conversation is easy and inviting, much like our leisurely time under the trees spent sipping on sparkling wine. Domaine Chandon, whose parent company is the famed Moët brand, was apparently the first wine club in Napa. As we sample multi-faceted blends, which are a welcome break from the normal (read: flat) wines we encountered so far on the trip, the conversation finds more depth as our smiles and laughter continue to grow. Chandon’s wines will do that—they have an incomparable way of bringing about joy... as playful bubbles effervesce, so does the crowd. There’s something truly special about looking out at the very vineyard from where the vintage in your hand arrived. A few flutes in, and we’re giddy as can be. We decide the “Étoile,” which means star in French, is the favorite of the tasting—it certainly stole the show— and on that giddy note, we depart for our hotel to prepare for the evening.

“With a frozé in

hand and my feet dangling in the hot tub it

escape feels like a vacation—an

from a less than ideal reality.”

“...I’m in another dimension

—a place where nature reigns supreme and all

worries fade off into the horizon.”

Biking along the “Vine Trail,” with the wind in my hair and the sun illuminating the winding road ahead, it feels like I’m in another dimension—a place where nature reigns supreme and all worries fade off into the horizon. My dreamy state lasts for the next two hours, as I reflect on the wonder of the day and the awe-inspiring beauty of Napa. Somehow the day gets even better, with dinner at PRESS in St. Helena. The fine-dining restaurant renowned for its steak and impressive wine selection, boasts over 1,200 options, housing the largest collection of Napa Valley wines in the world. The ambiance is a calculated combination of classic-meets-modern simplicity, which lets the food take center stage. Safely seated outside near a mood-setting cozy fire, we sip on a crisp Sauvignon Blanc while reflecting on our incredible time. Our Kusshi oysters arrive dressed in clouds of whipped horseradish foam—their velvety texture contrasted by the subtle crisp of apple and cucumber make for a winning combination. Just as I mark the starter “my favorite,” the Hamachi is placed on the table. It’s beyond fresh, in both taste and presentation, thanks to a plum sake granité that resembles a sorbet—it’s unlike anything I’ve tried. For the Alaskan Halibut, the in-house sommelier brings a glass of Pinot Grigio, and for the Wagyu Eye of Ribeye—which melts in my mouth like butter—he presents a smooth Cabernet. It truly is a dining experience when there’s a whole team working together to make every step exquisite. For dessert we sip on an aged port, whose layered complexity is a welcome surprise, as Chef Darryl gives us a tour of the wine room. The chilled space is filled with floor-to-ceiling racks of wine; reminiscent of a library, where instead of books holding stories, they’re secured in the corked bottles of a vintage collection.

On our way to Hotel Yountville, our second stop of the trip, we drop by the Napa General Store for breakfast. The local favorite is a must-stop for both a lazy brunch or a quick lunch overlooking the scenic Napa River. With NOLA-quality beignets and matcha lattes, this downhome charmer stole our hearts. The boutique hotel, which was built around the oldest Heritage Oak tree in the valley, is centrally located in the heart of Yountville. Featuring exposed rocks from the river, it reminds me of an East Coast manor—a country-chic dream. Our room comes equipped with high vaulted ceilings, whitewashed wooden beams, a fieldstone fireplace, a luxe sunken tub, and our very own patio for morning reading. We can’t resist a sample of our complimentary cheese plate and bottle of perfectly chilled Rosé, before heading off to our final wine tasting adventure.

Artesa is set on 350 acres, where its array of wines are sustainably farmed. In spite of the heat, we make it to the top of a modern staircase, and I am blown away. It’s as if I have been transported into another plane... the winery’s entrance, a geometric arch built into a hill, is preceded by pools of water on either side. The stark lines of towering sculptures rising from the fountains, impose on the natural topography, yet it somehow works. Our corner table, equipped with delicious Cava—an ode to the Spanish owners—has a zen vibe due to the view. The altitude brings a lovely breeze, as well as the sight of rolling vineyard-covered hills juxtaposed with a contemporary design—a true treat for the senses. Our senses are further enlivened with the arrival of our flight, featuring two Rosés, two Chardonnays, some Pinot, and a Cab, accompanied by a plate of truffles adorned with prints that mimic Artesa’s Spanish tiles. Between the tasting, and the extra glass of 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon, my friend and I are in dire need of some R-and-R.

In an effort to not fall asleep before dinner, we plunge into Hotel Yountville’s sparkling pool. With the sun shining down, it’s the perfect way to spend the remainder of the day—alternating between floating and reading in a plush cabana. Come sunset, we make our way over to the neighboring sister hotel, Bardessono for dinner at Lucy. The luxurious set up features bold architecture. Impressive art pieces are scattered throughout the property, including a half-finished marble sculpture just behind our table. Inspired by our Roman-esque statue we begin with a fig starter. The garden-picked figs cradle savory prosciutto and sharp arugula in their ripened embrace, for a playful mix of flavors. Given that steak has been part of every dinner thus far, I opt for my other favorite dish: duck. A soy caramel glaze, juicy roasted peaches, red cabbage, and stone fruit-ginger coulis combined with a duck leg that flakes off the bone, make for a special that could easily replace dessert. Satisfied with our delectable last supper, we opt to walk back to our hotel under the star-filled sky to soak in the remains of the sweet Napa air.

As we load up the car, an overwhelming sense of gratitude comes over me like a wave. Exploring with a dear friend, while indulging in the most decadent offerings of the Napa Valley, seems unreal given the state of the world. Each stop along our journey was beyond noteworthy, yet I know there’s so much more to see— and taste. It’s clear that this is not goodbye, rather, “until next time.” *

Brix Restaurant

Carneros Resort and Spa