FORTRESS WITH A VIEW

Paradero Todos Santos delivers posh privacy amidst a rich cultural scene.

An hour from the Cabo airport, my driver turns down an unmarked dirt road appearing to lead to one of two things: a cult hideout or a well-guarded secret. The powder blue SUV maneuvers through farmland and three security checkpoints until a fortress comes into view, its smooth tan walls camouflage

with the desert sand.

The car door swings open and a jovial poncho-clad bellman greets me, “Welcome to Paradero Todos Santos, we’re so happy you’re here.” I’m reassured. It is in fact a well-guarded hotel. I’m led through an archway and the scent of palo santo commands my attention. I round a corner and another poncho-wearing employee extends a bowl of stones, instructs me to take one and set my intention for the stay. I’m here to relax, and only six hours from my doorstep, I’ve already found tranquility.

In the center of the courtyard is an open air lobby. Just a cement ceiling sheltering fire pits, a communal table with guests working on laptops, a surfboard rack, black crochet hammocks, and ample floor cushions. Welcome cocktail in hand, I complete the checkin process swinging in a hammock, setting the tone for my stay.

Paradero, 20 minutes outside the sleepy town of Todos Santos, opened in February 2021. The 35 suites are more fittingly described as towers. I open the heavy metal door to a narrow staircase and climb two flights to a landing, the bedroom is to the right of the patio, bathroom on the left. These are the only rooms I encounter on property, everything else has a ceiling at most, fully integrated into nature. Up two more flights, the rooftop of my sky suite features daybeds and a star net—perfect for stargazing, with no lights for miles. 360 degree views encompass untamed desert, fields of basil, chives, poblano peppers, and flowers, and a beach in the distance just beyond a palm tree jungle. Decor and amenities are minimal, there are no electronics, just strong wifi. TV isn’t missed; guests gather on rooftops for the nightly 7 p.m. show of pink clouds swiped across the sky.

I take a shower, opening its window to the expansive desert— cactus reaching for the sky, road runners darting between agave. Cleaned up, I walk to dinner, meandering through the oasis of palm trees, spa huts, and streams in the heart of the property.

The stone bar wrapping around the kitchen is surrounded by couples who look like they stepped out of a catalog. I slip onto a stool and a server immediately offers me a QR code menu. For food only. The cocktail menu is: pick a spirit and what ingredients you like—spicy, sour, sweet? Passion fruit, mint, hibiscus? The rest is up to them. Within my parameters, the bartender hands me a hibiscus margarita garnished with grapefruit and rosemary and a chili salt rim. “If you don’t like it you pay double,” he says with a wink. The chili salt stings my sunburnt lips but at least I’m not paying double.

I base my order on the dishes I see being prepared in the kitchen. Lemony roasted cauliflower, perfectly charred, with aioli and a truffled pickle. Grilled sea bass topped with a fresh arugula and tomato salad. Simple yet perfected. When only a fishtail and rose gold flatware remain on my plate, Chef Eduardo Rios leans against the bar and asks how I liked dinner. He’s confident it’s one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

It was, and I had high expectations. The entire staff weaves him into every conversation, murmuring as if there’s a celebrity in our midst. Rumor has it, he came from the best restaurant in Mexico City, also repeatedly voted top 10 in Latin America.

Chef Rios tells me the menu changes frequently, influenced by the seasons, and the tortillas are made from scratch. The produce is from Paradero’s garden and the surrounding farms. He insists I have dessert, and within minutes I’m savoring a row of

mini caramelized bananas topped with yuzu syrup, a cloud of cream, and a smear of date paste.

I walk back to my tower under the star-splattered sky. Aside from laughter emanating from the restaurant, the night is quiet. I drag my comforter to the rooftop and sleep in the star net. Dreamy would be an understatement.

To immerse guests in the local culture and landscapes, Paradero includes one complimentary activity daily (thank goodness, as the property is so relaxing you need to be prompted to leave). After chilaquiles, I opt for a hike. Our guide leads us up a mountain to jagged cliffs overlooking churning waves. I’m curious about the beach below as you can see in the distance from the hotel. We descend and find it’s inhabited only by hermit crabs and a few horses. We wade across a freshwater stream, as the horses approach for a drink, and into the palm jungle. I’m in awe of the diverse ecosystems thriving in a condensed area.

The next day I sign up for a surf lesson at Cerritos Beach, a famous local spot. The lesson wraps up with a warm towel, cucumber lime mint water, and trail mix. They thought of everything. Josh Kramer, co-owner of Paradero, walks over, unassuming in a tie dye shirt, and asks about my experience, nodding as it aligns with his vision. He expresses that he wants guests to leave the hotel grounds, experience the area, and to visit once, twice, then buy a house in Todos Santos. So far I’m on track.

With the full afternoon ahead of me, I take a taxi into Todos Santos. I wander the quaint downtown area and side streets, admiring colorful buildings, trendy boutiques, and bougainvillea-covered taco shacks. It’s discovered enough to be cool and fun, yet not enough to trade its authenticity for a Starbucks.

I return to Paradero and glide into the pool. Its minimalist aesthetic is calming. Daybeds line the half-moon-shaped deck. The hot tub borders the bar and the infinity edge grazes the desert. While the entire property and experience entices guests to unwind, the pool is another level of serene.

The next day, noon rolls around and it’s time for the excursion I’ve been waiting for: the Baja Taco Tour. A guided tasting of Paradero’s owners’ favorite taco joints, taking the guesswork out of where to find authentic, safe, delicious food. Commencing at Barracuda on Cerritos Beach, we sit around a tile table under the palm frond roof for the best grilled shrimp tacos I’ve ever had, then continue to Todos Santos for ceviche tostadas at Tiki Santos and coconut battered avocado tacos at Santo Chile. We finish at Paradero’s restaurant with fried soft shell crab tacos drizzled with salsa, sesame seeds, and chile de arbol atop a black corn tortilla, lingering at the bar with other guests, sharing travel stories.

At Paradero, connecting with fellow guests and the surrounding nature is encouraged by the remote location, minimalist yet refined setting, and excellent food. The way they guide the stay is subtle yet impactful, like you are effortlessly taking part in the experiences and exploring the property then four days later you realize you’re the most relaxed you've ever been. *