Squash recipes that make the most of fall

Winter squash — orange, green, striped, gray, red — represents the colors and flavor of fall.

Though actually a fruit, squash promises endless variations of soups, stews and curries as well as cakes, breads, scones and pies. Survey the whimsical sizes and shapes with alluring names — Aladdin's Turban, pie pumpkin, delicata, honeynut.

RECIPES Winter squash with ancho chile

Serves 4to 6.

Here, traditional squash soup gets a lick of smoke and heat from ancho chile pepper and a bit of tangy sweet from local apples. Here's where the sweet dumpling squash with its lush, creamy, sugary flesh is a great fit, but any local winter squash will work nicely (except spaghetti). Top this with toasted rough bread and crunchy pepitas. From Beth Dooley.

INGREDIENTS

2 1⁄2 to 3 lb. winter squash 2tbsp. unsalted butter 1 shallot, chopped

1 tart apple, peeled, cored and chopped

1⁄2 tsp. ground ancho chile powder or chile powder, to taste

1 tsp. ground cinnamon Generous pinch cumin

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 c. chicken or vegetable stock

1⁄2 c. apple cider

Pepitas, for garnish

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds and fibrous interior. Place the squash, cut side down, on the parchment. Roast the squash until very tender, about 45minutes to 1hour. Remove and allow to cool. Scoop the flesh from the squash (you should have a little more than 2 cups) and set aside.

In a large, heavy soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat, then sauté the shallot, apple, chile powder, cinnamon and cumin until the shallot and apple become tender, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the stock, apple cider and squash. Increase the heat, bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer for about 10 minutes. Carefully transfer the mixture to a blender and purée. (When puréeing hot soup in a blender, never fill the blender more than halfway. Remove the plastic piece in the lid and cover with a dish towel to prevent steam from building.) Return the soup to the pot and serve garnished with pepitas.

Honey roasted squash

Serves 4to 6.

Roasted with warm spices and a lick of honey, this simple dish can easily be made ahead. It's a wonderful side to chicken or, when topped with a dollop of yogurt or crème fraîche, it makes a fine light dinner. From Beth Dooley.

INGREDIENTS

1 1⁄2 to 2 lb. winter squash, peeled seeded, and cut into 1-in. thick chunks

1 c. cooked or canned garbanzo beans, drained and patted dry

2 tbsp. hazelnut oil or olive oil

1 tbsp. honey

1 tbsp. za'atar, or more to taste

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper 1⁄4 c. chopped toasted hazelnuts, for garnish

1⁄4 c. chopped cilantro, for garnish

Lemon wedges, for serving

DIRECTIONS

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, toss the squash and the garbanzo beans with the oil, honey, za'atar and a pinch each of coarse salt and pepper. Arrange the squash and beans in a single layer and roast until golden and tender, about 30minutes, shaking the pan and flipping the squash halfway through. Transfer the squash to a serving platter and garnish with the chopped nuts and cilantro. Serve with lemon wedges.