A surging seaside haven
Just as surf patterns ebb and flow with the seasons, so too has Biarritz cycled in and out of fashion over the years. The French resort town, about 15 miles up the Atlantic coast from the border with Spain, hit a peak in the 1950s when California surf culture was introduced to Europe on its sandy beaches. The surfing’s still superb, as the neoprene-clad faithful who trek here every season will attest. But in recent years, there has also been a swell of activity onshore. Hip boutiques stocked with local brands abound, and a recharged dining scene serves a range of food, such as creative tapas and classic French pastries. Suddenly this beauty of French Basque Country is back in vogue.
Friday 3 p.m.: Fancy feet
This might be a beach town, but the rules of French style still apply: No one schleps around in flip-flops. To upgrade your footwear, visit the 2-year-old boutique PK214, an aspirational casualchic brand from nearby Guéthary stocked with handsome suede slip-ons and gorgeous scarlet espadrilles with vertiginous wedge heels. For simpler models, browse Art of Soule, a shop that opened in 2014 with basic espadrilles in bright variations, from nautical navy stripes to tropical florals. Or go traditional at Les Sandales d’Eugénie, a family-run shop that has been selling colorful, made-in-France espadrilles since the 1930s.
5 p.m.: To the lighthouse
Put your new shoes to use on a leisurely waterfront walk to admire the town from its most attractive angles. Begin at the Rocher de la Vierge, a statue-crowned rock jutting from the turbulent sea that is reached from the mainland via a narrow iron bridge. Then follow the seaside path north atop wind-whipped cliffs, past rainbows of blooming hydrangeas, and along the promenade past the seaside Casino and the Grand Plage’s wide crescent of sand. Continue to the Phare de Biarritz, the white lighthouse on the town’s northernmost bluff, for views of the golden sands of Plage Miramar and the Hôtel du Palais, the city’s landmark luxury resort and former royal residence. Time this mile-and-ahalf walk to end at sunset for maximum effect.
7 p.m.: Eat the fruits of the sea
It would be a shame to visit the French Atlantic coast and not indulge in the fruits of the sea. So take a seat at La Cabane à Huîtres, a top-notch oyster bar. Choose a variety of oysters from the chalkboard menu — the superb Fines de Claire from Marennes-Oléron should not be missed — and while your bivalves are being shucked, sip a glass of Egiategia, a crisp white wine partly aged underwater in a nearby bay. Later, sate any lingering hunger next door at Saline Ceviche Bar, a cozy bistro where seafood from nearby St.-Jean-de-Luz was recently transformed into popcorn-topped Peruvian-style ceviche with Atlantic cod, citrusy tiger’s milk, coriander, red onion and sweet potato.
9:30 p.m.: Night moves
When the weather is warm, there’s no better spot to wind down the night than Etxola Bibi, a seasonal open-air roadside cafe atop the steep hill that backs the magnificent Côte des Basques beach. Music performances and pétanque courts lure locals to the parasol-covered tables after sunset, so join them for a bubbly Cocktail Bibi (elderflower syrup, lime, mint leaf and Champagne). During inclement weather, instead head to Ventilo Café, on the edge of the Old Port area, where the action revolves around live music.
Saturday 10 a.m.: Surf’s up
European surfing has deep-rooted ties to Biarritz’s Côte des Basques, but seasoned surfers often head farther south to Plage Marbella, a wilder adjacent beach reached by descending a long staircase. To join them, wiggle into your wet suit or just watch the pros navigating the impressive Atlantic waves offshore. If the weather’s uncooperative, head to the nearby Cité de l’Océan, a museum that opened in 2011 and is dedicated to the science and preservation of the surf and sea. Here even novices can try riding the Basque waves thanks to a virtual-reality simulator.
1 p.m.: Bon burger
A wave of new restaurants is raising the bar for le hamburger: Think of French cheeses, local produce and freshly baked buns. Try an elevated burger yourself with lunch at Bonheur, a stylish “maison du hamburger” that opened in 2014 with sleek wood furnishings and a flavorful Bleu burger (aged beef with grilled eggplant, tomato coulis, arugula and bleu d’Auvergne cheese). Or claim a table on the sidewalk terrace outside Le Comptoir à Burger, a shop known to locals as Le CAB, where indulgent variations are topped with Comté, rawmilk raclette, foie gras or even fresh truffles.
3 p.m.: Empress’s edifices
This former fishing village began its transformation into an elegant seaside resort over a century and a half ago, after the arrival of Empress Eugénie and her husband, Napoleon III. To tour the architecture the royal couple left behind, skip the famous Hôtel du Palais in favor of the oftoverlooked Chapelle Impériale, a 19th-century chapel. The brick structure, constructed in a mash-up of Roman-Byzantine and HispanicMoorish styles, is less ostentatious but equally impressive. Then visit Église Ste. Eugénie, a neoGothic cathedral whose cavernous crypt doubles as a venue for contemporary art exhibitions.
5 p.m.: Local inspiration
There’s no dearth of inspiration in this scenic area, and the proof hangs on the walls of two adjacent galleries. At Galerie d’Art Anne Broitman, opened by the eponymous artist, the exhibits highlight contemporary Basque art, from Pop Art-inspired paintings to modern sculpture, such as the recent show of haunting works by Alberto Letamendi. Next door, Galerie Sylvain Cazenave is filled with the pioneering sports photographer’s dreamy images of the city and its coast that document the dawning of Côte Basque surf culture.
7:30 p.m.: Border cuisine
The proximity to Spain explains why tapas and pintxos (as the canapé-like snacks are called in Basque) show up on local menus as regularly as French entrees. To sample this mash-up of culinary influences, crawl through the small bars and cafes clustered around the market hall Les Halles. Start on the main plaza at Les Contrebandiers, a wine bar that serves pots of rich country pâté with chewy baguettes, and boards of hand-sliced jamón from Lekunberri, a village across the Spanish border. Then move down the street to Le Comptoir du Foie Gras, a bar where crowds pack the sidewalk tables while nibbling on platters of pintxos made with rich slices of foie gras, spicy chorizo and crumbly ash-coated goat cheese.
10 p.m.: Bar à vin
To remind yourself that this is indeed France, finish the night at L’Artnoa, a buzzy wine bar that reopened last summer in an expanded space with chalkboard-green walls, tall wooden tables and a dark-gray marble bar. Order a glass from the everchanging list of blancs, rouges, rosés and Champagnes, or inspect the wines displayed on floorto-ceiling shelves for a bottle to share, perhaps the ruby-red Corbières Rozeta, a fruity field blend from the natural-wine producer Maxime Magnon.
Sunday 11 a.m.: Boutique bonanza
Biarritz is brimming with boutiques, but to find the most stylish shops, there is only one street name you need to know: Rue Gambetta. Start at EQ Concept Store, a shop for beauty-minded surfers that opened in 2015 that stocks cheeky floral bikini bottoms, colored sunscreen sticks and surfboard-shaped incense holders. Visit L’Etiquette for cartoon-printed tees and slouchy sweaters from the Basque brand Loreak Mendian. Then browse the wares at Jazz the Glass, an eclectic shop packed with such items as embroidered caftans, lamps shaped like gummy bears and ikat-patterned purses.
1 p.m.: Sugar high
Indecision awaits at the entrance to Miremont, an elegant patisserie where large glass display cases are filled with tempting treats: glistening fruit-topped tarts, pillowy cream-stuffed tortes, buttery madeleines, a rainbow of macarons, and neat rows of chocolates, caramels and nut-coated truffles. Then head upstairs to the luxurious Salon de Thé for another sweet house specialty: hot chocolate topped with Chantilly cream.
Lodging
Opened in 2011, the Hôtel de Silhouette (30, rue Gambetta; hotel-silhouette-biarritz.com) is a bright, modern boutique hotel in a 17th-century property near Les Halles, where you’ll find 20 colorful rooms and suites, contemporary furnishings and a seasonal restaurant with outdoor seating beside a grassy courtyard.
To sleep where royals once slept, check in to the Hôtel du Palais (1, avenue de l’Impératrice; hotel-du-palais.com), the former summer home of Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie that has been transformed into a palatial beachfront hotel with two pools, two restaurants, a spa and 154 rooms and suites.