Perfect bed for runny eggs
There are so many reasons to adore shakshuka, but that savory gush of runny egg yolk is high on the list.
That dish, a North African staple, involves poaching eggs in a quickly simmered, heavily spiced tomato-pepper sauce.
This recipe retains shakshuka’s eggy allure, but instead of being red, spicy and tangy, it’s green, mellow and porky. Most important, it’s a satisfying one-pan meal that’s just as easy to throw together for a Tuesday dinner as it is for a weekend breakfast, even before your second cup of tea.
The green hues come from chard, lots of it. I stew it gently but persistently until it almost breaks down, absorbing the flavors of the pancetta fat and olive oil, and turning into a plush nest to cook the eggs. Low heat is your friend here: You want to give the chard a chance to soften but not brown. It will take 20 minutes or so. That’s when you can toast up some thick slices of country bread to serve alongside, and drink your tea, or open the wine. The sublimely silky texture of the greens makes them worth the wait.
Since I also include the stems, I like to use rainbow or red chard. They are prettiest, adding flashes of pink and gold amid the dark leaves. But Swiss chard tastes just as good, even if the presentation is a bit more subtle. You could also use spinach, which has the advantage of cooking faster and breaking down more completely than chard.
Those stems are sautéed along with the white bulbs from either ramps, if you can get them, or scallions. They give the dish a sweet, oniony foundation that plays off the saltiness of the pancetta.
At the very end, when the vegetables have collapsed thoroughly, it will be time to add the eggs. Heat them briefly, for five to seven minutes, tops. You want them cooked but still quivering, with yolks ready to escape with the gentlest nudge. Scooping the finished dish from the pan to plate is the only slightly tricky part of the whole recipe. You don’t want to burst the yolks. That fleeting joy is always best left to the diner.
SKILLET GREENS WITH RUNNY EGGS, PEAS AND PANCETTA
Total time: 30 minutes; makes 4 servings 2 ounces pancetta or 2 thick-cut slices bacon, diced 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 bunch ramps or scallions, thinly sliced, whites and greens separated 2 bunches red, rainbow or Swiss chard, stems thinly sliced and leaves coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste Pinch of red-pepper flakes
¾ cup chicken or vegetable broth, or water ⅔ cup fresh or frozen peas (you don’t have to thaw them if frozen) 6 large eggs Toasted country bread or baguette, for serving (optional)
Preparation: Add pancetta and 1 tablespoon oil to a 10-inch skillet and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden brown and crisp, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate.
To the same skillet, add remaining 2 tablespoon oil, ramp or scallion whites, and chard stems, and cook until softened, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, salt and red pepper and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant.
Add the chard leaves and broth, set the heat to medium-low and cook partly covered, until very soft and silky, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. If using fresh peas, add them during the last 5 minutes of cooking; if frozen, stir them in when the greens are cooked.
Crack eggs into the greens. Season eggs with salt and pepper, then cover pan completely and cook until eggs are cooked to taste, 5 minutes for very runny, 7 minutes for jammy. Sprinkle with pancetta and serve with toast if you like.