Santa Fe New Mexican

Minnesota sculptor lays down her butter knife

Creator of state fair princess butter heads retires after decades of performanc­e art

- By Cathy Free

Photos and paintings can be lovely, but if you really want to impress, get your likeness chiseled into a 90-pound block of butter.

Every year at the Minnesota State Fair, a dozen young dairy pageant finalists are sculpted live as part of a spectacle, a tradition that dates back to 1965.

The butter busts began as a way to bring attention to Minnesota’s dairy industry and have remained a draw since, as thousands of visitors show up every August to watch the painstakin­g artistry while a winner is named Princess Kay of the Milky Way.

“It would be hard to find a person in Minnesota who doesn’t know about Princess Kay of the Milky Way,” said sculptor Linda Christense­n, 79, about the contest naming a state dairy ambassador.

For almost 50 years, Christense­n has been the principal artist to create the busts. She uses a kitchen knife to carve the faces into salted butter. Each one takes about six hours.

Now, after churning out more than 500 princess butter heads over nearly five decades, Christense­n has decided to retire her knife. She turned her last 90-pound block into a creamy masterpiec­e at the fairground­s last month from her glass-enclosed studio.

“You learn to get used to working in a rotating glass booth with everyone watching you,” she said. “You have to bundle up, because the temperatur­e is set at 39 degrees. There probably aren’t a lot of artists who’d like to work with cold butter, but I really enjoyed it.”

Christense­n, who grew up in Minneapoli­s, said it has been an honor to work as an industry butter artist. She moved to Oceanside, Calif., 18 years ago, but returned to her home state every August to keep up the tradition.

She said she admires the women she sculpts, most of whom come from dairy farming families.

“That’s what I’ll miss the most: Getting to know the ‘princesses’ who would show up in my chilly booth, all bundled up, wearing their tiaras. We’d spend about six hours together while I made their butter heads.”

The Princess Kay of the Milky Way contest is not based on looks. It is a goodwill ambassador program focused on leadership skills and “promoting the goodness of dairy products,” according to the Minnesota Dairy Princess Handbook.

The princess is selected based on how well judges think she will promote Minnesota’s dairy industry at trade shows and community events. Women who live or work on dairy farms are encouraged to compete in county contests every year, with the finalists advancing to the Minnesota State Fair.

The top dozen ended up in Christense­n’s see-through booth as she chiseled their likenesses into edible works of art.

Christense­n began the niche portraits in 1972 when the American Dairy Associatio­n of Minnesota (now known as Midwest Dairy) was looking for a new artist to make giant princess butter heads at the state fairground­s in Falcon Heights, outside of St. Paul.

Christense­n had recently graduated from the Minneapoli­s College of Art and Design and was recommende­d by one of her instructor­s to make sculptures of the pageant’s finalists.

Christense­n worked as an art teacher at the time, but she thought two weeks of butter sculpting would be a fun way to make extra money, she said. She didn’t imagine she’d remain for nearly 50 years.

She’s turning over her knife to Gerry Kulzer, an art teacher from Litchfield, Minn.

 ?? MIDWEST DAIRY VIA WASHINGTON POST ?? Linda Christense­n carves a likeness of Amy Kyllo, 2019’s Princess Kay of the Milky Way, from a 90-pound block of butter.
MIDWEST DAIRY VIA WASHINGTON POST Linda Christense­n carves a likeness of Amy Kyllo, 2019’s Princess Kay of the Milky Way, from a 90-pound block of butter.

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