Santa Fe New Mexican

‘Winners and losers’ as $20 fast-food wage nears

While supporters say boost will help workers, others claim law will lead to high prices, job losses, closures

- By Kurtis Lee

LANCASTER, Calif. — A decade ago, Jamie Bynum poured his life savings into a barbecue restaurant now tucked between a Thai eatery and a nutrition store in a Southern California strip mall.

As a franchise owner of a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit, Bynum is pridefully particular about the details of his establishm­ent — the size of the hickory wood pile on display near the entrance, the positionin­g of paper towel rolls on each table, the careful calibratio­n it takes to keep his restaurant staffed 10 hours a day with a small crew.

The staffing, he said, has become harder in recent years, as the state’s minimum wage has steadily increased since 2017, often rising by a dollar per year. Today, it’s $16 an hour.

But Monday, it will jump to $20 an hour for most fast-food workers in California, propelling them to the top of what minimum-wage earners make anywhere in the country. (Only Tukwila, Wash., a small city outside Seattle, sets the bar higher, with a minimum wage of $20.29 for many employees.)

The ambitious law, which supporters hope to see replicated nationwide, has been characteri­zed by opposing sides in stark terms. To backers, it is a step toward fair compensati­on for low-wage workers who faced significan­t risk during the pandemic. To opponents, it is a cataclysmi­c move that will raise food prices, lead to job losses and force some franchisee­s to consider closing.

“People don’t understand that when wages rise, so do the prices,” Bynum said.

Bynum has, in recent years, raised prices to try to maintain profit margins — and each time, he said, he has noticed a drop in customers. That, in turn, forced painful decisions about cutting staffing and trimming hours.

The new minimum wage will add $3,000 to $4,000 to his monthly expenses, he said, and while he hopes to keep all eight of his employees, he doesn’t know if he can make the numbers add up.

One employee, Josue Reyes, has worked at the restaurant on and off over the past decade.

He works the evening shift, often taking the bus and then riding his bike the rest of the way to the restaurant. Reyes, 35, said the consistent pay raises through the years — he now makes $16 an hour — had helped him significan­tly. He puts much of his paycheck toward assisting his mother pay the rent at their trailer park and tries to save where he can.

While another pay increase will help him, Reyes, who has worked in fast food for much of his life, said he feared that before long, jobs would become more competitiv­e and harder to keep.

“There can be job losses because restaurant­s close,” he said on a recent weekday, dressed in jeans and a T-shirt for his shift. “No one wants that, but it seems very possible.”

The potential ripple effects of the law weighed by Bynum and Reyes at this fast-food restaurant in Lancaster, a high desert city at the northern edge of Los Angeles County, mirror conversati­ons that will play out across the state as owners and employees — and eventually consumers — adjust to the new reality.

David Neumark, a professor of economics at the University of California, Irvine, said the impact would be more nuanced. “A higher minimum wage creates winners and losers,” he said.

Championed by powerful labor organizati­ons, including the Service Employees Internatio­nal Union, the law will lift pay for more than half a million California employees who work for fast-food chains with 60 or more locations nationwide. It also creates a council comprising, among others, workers, franchise owners and union representa­tives who will oversee future increases to the minimum wage and devise workplace standards.

In an interview, Mary Kay Henry, president of the SEIU, said the law was long overdue. “We are talking about a billion-dollar industry that can and should afford this raise,” she said, noting that most workers are Black and Latino. “Raising pay improves employers’ ability to hire and retain workers.”

 ?? GABRIELLA ANGOTTI-JONES/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Jamie Bynum, a franchise owner of a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit in Lancaster, Calif., answers a call at his restaurant last week. The nation’s highest minimum wage for fast-food workers takes effect in the state on Monday.
GABRIELLA ANGOTTI-JONES/THE NEW YORK TIMES Jamie Bynum, a franchise owner of a Dickey’s Barbecue Pit in Lancaster, Calif., answers a call at his restaurant last week. The nation’s highest minimum wage for fast-food workers takes effect in the state on Monday.

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