Ar­ti­choke Risotto with Capoc­ollo and Pecorino

SAVEUR - - Contents -

SERVES 4–6 / To­tal: 2 hr. 40 min.

“I come from Mi­lano, which is ac­tu­ally the pa­tria, or land, of risotto,” Goggi says. At Masse­ria Moroseta in Puglia, she cooks with ar­ti­chokes from her gar­den, and is sure to in­clude plenty of their ed­i­ble stems. She braises the ar­ti­chokes, then purées them into a cream for cook­ing the rice, and re­serves a few pieces of the hearts for serv­ing. “I love the pair­ing of capoc­ollo and Pecorino with this dish be­cause they are tra­di­tional of this place.”

¼ cup fresh le­mon juice 6 whole globe ar­ti­chokes, ide­ally long-stemmed ¼ cup ex­tra-vir­gin olive oil, di­vided, plus more for driz­zling if de­sired 2 medium gar­lic cloves, peeled and smashed, di­vided 1 small Yukon Gold potato (5 oz.), peeled and diced Kosher salt Freshly ground black pep­per 5 Tbsp. dry white wine, di­vided 3 Tbsp. un­salted but­ter, di­vided 2 medium shal­lots (1¼ oz.), minced 1½ cups (11 oz.) Carnaroli rice 3½ cups veg­etable stock, warmed ¾ cup finely grated aged Pecorino Romano Le­mon thyme or finely grated le­mon zest, for serv­ing 8–12 pa­per-thin slices of capoc­ollo, for serv­ing

1 Fill a large bowl half­way with cold wa­ter. Add the le­mon juice to keep the ar­ti­chokes from ox­i­diz­ing, then clean the ar­ti­chokes one at a time: Trim away all the tough outer leaves. Re­move and re­serve the stem. Cut off the spiky tops, and re­move any thick fibers from the base. Quarter each ar­ti­choke heart, then use a spoon to scoop out all the hairy choke. Drop each ar­ti­choke in the le­mon wa­ter be­fore mov­ing to the next.

2 Make the ar­ti­choke cream: In a large skil­let over medium heat, warm 2 ta­ble­spoons of the olive oil. Add one smashed gar­lic clove and cook, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til golden brown, 3–4 min­utes. Add the ar­ti­chokes stems, 8 ar­ti­choke quar­ters (cut sides down), and the potato. Sea­son with kosher salt and pep­per. Add 2 cups wa­ter and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to main­tain a sim­mer, and cook un­til the ar­ti­chokes and potato are very soft, 45–50 min­utes. Care­fully transfer the veg­eta­bles and their cook­ing liq­uid to a blender and blend on high un­til the mix­ture is very smooth. If it re­mains very fi­brous after blend­ing, press the ar­ti­choke purée through a fine sieve. 3 Mean­while, braise the re­main­ing ar­ti­chokes: In a clean skil­let, heat the re­main­ing 2 ta­ble­spoons of oil un­til shim­mer­ing. Add the re­main­ing gar­lic clove and cook, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til soft­ened, 3–4 min­utes. Sea­son the ar­ti­chokes with salt and pep­per, and place them, cut sides down, in the pan. Add 3 ta­ble­spoons of the wine and enough wa­ter to come three­quar­ters of the way up the sides of the ar­ti­chokes; bring to a boil over high heat, then lower to main­tain a strong sim­mer. Cook, with­out stir­ring, un­til very ten­der, 28–30 min­utes. Re­move from heat and set aside.

4 In a medium pot, heat 1 ta­ble­spoon of the but­ter over medium heat. When the foam sub­sides, add the shal­lots and a pinch of salt. Cook, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til the shal­lots are translu­cent, 10–12 min­utes. Add the rice and cook, stir­ring fre­quently, un­til fra­grant and lightly toasted, 4 min­utes. Add the re­main­ing 2 ta­ble­spoons of wine; cook un­til evap­o­rated. Start adding the warm stock ½ cup at a time, stir­ring the rice con­stantly and al­low­ing the liq­uid to al­most com­pletely evap­o­rate be­fore adding more. After 15 min­utes of adding stock (about 3½ cups), start adding equal amounts of the ar­ti­choke cream in place of the stock. When the rice is al dente (10–12 min­utes, or after about 2 cups of the ar­ti­choke cream has been added), re­move the pan from the heat. Stir in the re­main­ing 2 ta­ble­spoons of but­ter and the cheese, then let the risotto rest for about 2 min­utes to thicken slightly. Add more salt and black pep­per to taste.

5 Di­vide the risotto among 4–6 plates. Top each with a few braised ar­ti­choke pieces, black pep­per, a pinch of le­mon thyme or le­mon zest, and 2–3 capoc­ollo slices. Driz­zle with olive oil if de­sired, and serve im­me­di­ately.

Silky, smoky capoc­ollo—a cured pig’s neck char­cu­terie from Puglia—is per­fect with this earthy ar­ti­choke risotto.

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