PER­FECT THE FOR­MULA

SAVEUR - - Range -

The ci­paille is a rus­tic dish at heart, de­vel­oped to serve a large group. But it will still ben­e­fit from care­ful prep and ad­her­ence to these tips.

The Crust: Chef Dion-laval­lée dis­penses with the tra­di­tional six lay­ers of in­te­rior pas­try, in­stead re­ly­ing on chopped potato as a starchy, bind­ing el­e­ment. And while he uses sep­a­rate doughs for the top and bot­tom lay­ers, we sim­pli­fied that by us­ing a flaky pâte brisée, or clas­sic but­ter pie dough, for both. For ease of rolling and han­dling, and to min­i­mize shrink­age, make the crust a day ahead and chill it overnight in the fridge. It should then be easy to roll—lightly floured as needed—after about 10 min­utes on the counter.

The Meat: The bulk of the la­bor in­volved in mak­ing a ci­paille comes from break­ing down the meats. Once that’s done, it’s mostly a mat­ter of pil­ing them all into a pot. If ever you needed an­other rea­son to make friends with your lo­cal butcher, this is it: You will likely need to be in touch with a good one for a whole mar­row bone and other odd cuts, and you might as well have the shop pre­pare the rest of the meat for you.

The Sauce: Un­like a pot pie’s, the ci­paille’s broth con­tains no added thick­en­ers. The large chunks of brais­ing meat re­lease their juices, and, with the cured pork fat and meat col­la­gen re­leased dur­ing bak­ing, there’s no need for a but­tery roux or ad­di­tional starchy binders. If you are us­ing pack­aged stock, keep in mind that it will con­cen­trate sig­nif­i­cantly dur­ing cook­ing, so be mind­ful of the salt level—opt for a low-sodium ver­sion and sea­son the meat mari­nade more spar­ingly.

The Spices: Although Cana­dian culi­nary his­to­rian Lenore New­man ac­knowl­edges that there “re­ally is no canon­i­cal, cor­rect ver­sion” of the Que­be­cois meat pie, the com­mon spice pro­file is rem­i­nis­cent of me­dieval French court cui­sine rather than the menus of mod­ern Paris. In­ten­sive use of spices was char­ac­ter­is­tic of the time, par­tic­u­larly those with ori­gins in the East, such as cin­na­mon and clove. These fla­vors re­main com­mon in Que­bec, and give the ci­paille its be­guil­ing aroma.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.