Que­be­cois-style Mixed Meat Pie (Ci­paille)

SAVEUR - - Range -

SERVES 8 Ac­tive: 2 hr. • To­tal: 17 hr.

From the coastal town of Gaspé and Que­bec’s Lower North Shore, this gen­er­ous pie is typ­i­cally filled with a com­bi­na­tion of vian­des des bois (meat from the woods) and vian­des de boucherie (meat from the butcher). Adapted from Au Pied de Co­chon La Ca­bane d’à Côté, in St. Benoît de Mirabel, this recipe in­cludes a mar­row bone to re­lease steam dur­ing cook­ing and to en­rich the fill­ing. Use meats avail­able in your area, fo­cus­ing on tougher, bonein brais­ing cuts and a mix of both lean and fatty pieces. FOR THE CRUST: 4½ cups all-pur­pose flour 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. kosher salt 3 sticks (12 oz.) cold, un­salted but­ter, cut into small cubes

FOR THE PIE: 12 oz. bone-in rab­bit, cut into serv­ing-size pieces 11 oz. un­smoked, salted pork belly (such as pancetta or ven­trèche), cut into 1-inch cubes, poached for 5 min­utes in sim­mer­ing wa­ter, then drained 9 oz. veal, veni­son, or moose stew meat (such as bone­less shoul­der, col­lar, or neck), cut into 1½-inch pieces 8 oz. lamb shank, cut across the bone by your butcher into 1½-inch pieces

2 Cor­nish hen legs (6 oz.), skin on 2 duck legs (1 lb. 8 oz.), skin on, ex­cess fat re­moved, thighs and drum­sticks sep­a­rated 1½ medium white onions, sliced ¼ inch thick (3 cups) ¼ cup minced fresh gar­lic (from 1 medium head) 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. dried sa­vory, di­vided 2½ tsp. ground cin­na­mon,

di­vided 2½ tsp. ground clove, di­vided Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pep­per 1 cup dry white wine But­ter, for greas­ing the pan 3 medium rus­set pota­toes (1 lb. 2 oz.), peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 3½ cups chicken stock 2 large egg yolks 1 Make the crust: In the bowl of a stand mixer fit­ted with the pad­dle at­tach­ment, add the flour, sugar, and salt. Add the cold but­ter, and mix on medi­um­low speed un­til the but­ter has bro­ken down into pea-size crum­bles. Turn down the mixer to low speed and driz­zle in ¾ cup very cold wa­ter; con­tinue mix­ing un­til the dough just comes to­gether.

2 Turn out the dough and sep­a­rate out one-third from the rest; press the 2 re­sult­ing un­even pieces of dough into 1-inch-thick disks. Wrap each tightly in plas­tic wrap and re­frig­er­ate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

3 In a large bowl, com­bine the rab­bit, pork belly, stew meat, lamb, hen legs, duck legs, onions, and gar­lic. Add half each of the sa­vory, cin­na­mon, and clove, and sea­son with salt to taste. (For home­made stock, use about 1 ta­ble­spoon kosher salt and 1 tea­spoon black pep­per; use less for store-bought stock de­pend­ing on its salt level.) Add the wine and mix well to coat the meat evenly with the mari­nade. Cover and re­frig­er­ate at least 8 hours, or overnight.

4 About 8 hours be­fore you plan to serve the ci­paille, as­sem­ble the pie. Re­trieve the dough and let soften at room tem­per­a­ture for 10–15 min­utes. Mean­while, pre­heat the oven to 400°F and set a rack near the bot­tom with no other racks above it. Place a rimmed bak­ing sheet or a large roast­ing pan on the floor of the oven to catch any drips.

5 Grease the bot­tom and sides of a deep, 3½-quart oven­proof casse­role with but­ter. In a medium bowl, add the pota­toes, re­main­ing spices, and some kosher salt and pep­per; toss and set aside. Re­trieve the mar­i­nated meat from the fridge and set the duck drum­sticks and hen legs aside. In a small bowl, whisk the yolks and heavy cream, and set aside. 6 On a lightly floured work sur­face, us­ing a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the larger disk of dough to a 16-inch cir­cle about ⅛ inch thick. Gen­tly lift and set­tle the sheet into the casse­role, press­ing it to fill the cor­ners and line the sides of the dish with about 1 inch over­hang around the top edges of the pot. Place the mar­row bone up­right in the cen­ter of the casse­role. Next, cover the bot­tom of the casse­role with a layer of mixed meats and onions. Add half of the pota­toes, fol­lowed by an­other layer of meats. Add the re­main­ing pota­toes, fol­lowed by any re­main­ing meats; ar­range the re­served hen legs and duck drum­sticks so that the bones stick up over the sur­face of the dish, then add enough stock to just cover the fill­ing. (Re­serve the re­main­ing stock for bast­ing.)

7 Lightly flour a work sur­face again, and roll out the re­main­ing dough disk to an 11-inch cir­cle. Use a par­ing knife to cut 5 small Xs in the dough where the bones will poke through. Lift and place the dough onto the top of the pie, care­fully set­tling the open­ings around the bones. Pinch the seam all the way around the rim of the pot to seal, trim­ming away any ex­cess dough. Brush all over with the yolk wash.

8 Bake for 20 min­utes, then lower the tem­per­a­ture to 300°F and con­tinue bak­ing. Once the top layer of dough no longer looks raw (after about 1 hour of cook­ing), baste the top of the pie with the re­main­ing stock ev­ery 30 min­utes. Con­tinue bak­ing un­til the duck legs are very ten­der and break apart when prod­ded with a fork, 5–6 hours. The crust should be very dark, but if it starts to burn be­fore the meat is ten­der, cover the sur­face with foil and fin­ish cook­ing. If the drips on the tray at the bot­tom of the oven start smok­ing, swap out for a clean tray.

9 Let the ci­paille rest at room tem­per­a­ture for about 1 hour be­fore serv­ing to al­low the meats to ab­sorb some of the juices. (The pie will be soupy in­side.) Serve scooped into bowls.

1 Tbsp. heavy cream 1 beef mar­row bone (1½ lb.), about 9 inches long, soaked in cold wa­ter in the fridge for 5 hours The ex­posed mar­row bone isn’t just car­ni­vore bravado: It’s also a chim­ney that al­lows steam to es­cape past the pas­try from the juicy fill­ing within.

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