Ode to Sbrisolona
An epic Italian baked good we somehow didn’t know about
WHEN BAKER LUIGI BIASETTO visited the saveur office to bring us his panettone, I fell hard for the buttery, biscottilike disks of sbrisolona he toted along too. A 16th-century treat from the Italian countryside near Mantua, these rustic tarts are traditionally made from meager ingredients, such as lard, cornmeal, flour, and hazelnuts. In noble households, sugar, spices, and almonds were eventually added. Today, Luigi makes my favorite version, with minuscule chocolate chips and roasted hazelnuts from Piemonte. It’s usually crumbled into pieces and eaten casually by hand—sometimes just my own, because I find sbrisolona is best eaten alone-a. —S.A. For Luigi Biasetto’s recipe, visit saveur.com/sbrisolona.