Ode to Sbrisolona

An epic Ital­ian baked good we some­how didn’t know about

SAVEUR - - Test Kitchen -

WHEN BAKER LUIGI BIASETTO vis­ited the saveur of­fice to bring us his panet­tone, I fell hard for the but­tery, bis­cot­ti­like disks of sbrisolona he toted along too. A 16th-cen­tury treat from the Ital­ian coun­try­side near Man­tua, these rus­tic tarts are tra­di­tion­ally made from mea­ger in­gre­di­ents, such as lard, corn­meal, flour, and hazel­nuts. In no­ble house­holds, sugar, spices, and al­monds were even­tu­ally added. To­day, Luigi makes my fa­vorite ver­sion, with mi­nus­cule choco­late chips and roasted hazel­nuts from Piemonte. It’s usu­ally crum­bled into pieces and eaten ca­su­ally by hand—some­times just my own, be­cause I find sbrisolona is best eaten alone-a. —S.A. For Luigi Biasetto’s recipe, visit saveur.com/sbrisolona.

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