16 ZARQA, JOR­DAN

A women’s refugee cook­ing col­lec­tive,

SAVEUR - - Origins - BY SABA IM­TIAZ

ON A TUES­DAY MORN­ING, A MID­DLE-AGED WOMAN bus­tles into a kitchen in the town of Zarqa, Jor­dan, just out­side Am­man, hold­ing mul­ti­ple bags of meat. Around the kitchen, or­ders are scrawled on sticky notes and empty boxes. To­day, she has to make 70 kibbeh, a type of fried Le­van­tine meat cro­quette, and she ap­pears com­pletely at ease.

“It’ll take four hours,” she es­ti­mates, and rolls up her sleeves. She puts away her things. The bot­tom of her head­scarf is neatly tucked in­side her tu­nic. She com­bines bul­gur wheat with spoon­fuls of crushed red pep­per, flour, black pep­per, and lamb, and kneads the mix into a dough, an­i­mat­edly nar­rat­ing the process as she reaches for in­gre­di­ents. She works for a women-led cook­ing col­lec­tive in Jor­dan, op­er­ated by a non­profit or­ga­ni­za­tion, where a small group of Syr­ian

From top: The city of Zarqa, Jor­dan, just a short drive from the cap­i­tal of Am­man; the cooks pre­pare a biryani for lunch. JOR­DAN Zarqa

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