SAVEUR - - 25th Anniversar­y -

Saveur has never wor­shipped restau­rants. For­get about the hottest young chef in town; we’ve al­ways been more in­ter­ested in what his or her grand­mother cooks at home. The ex­cep­tions: those places that carry sub­stan­tial cul­tural weight, in that they speak to how we were eat­ing in a cer­tain place at a cer­tain time. The fol­low­ing restau­rants, all born 25 years ago, qual­ify. • Astrid & Gastón Lima

• French Laun­dry* Napa, Cal­i­for­nia *at least the Thomas Keller ver­sion

• Gramercy Tav­ern New York City

• Gue­laguetza Los Angeles See p. 80 for owner Bricia Lopez’s fea­ture on Oax­aca.

• Hig­gins Port­land, Ore­gon

• Il Buco New York City

• I Trulli New York City

• Jud­son Grill* New York City *closed in 2004 • La Per­gola Rome

• Le Bernardin* New York City *un­der Eric Ripert, who took over in 1994, fol­low­ing the un­timely death of founder Gil­bert Le­coze at age 48

• Les Amis Sin­ga­pore

• Nobu New York City

• St. John Lon­don

• Sul­li­van Street Bak­ery New York City

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