Kick-Back Cock­tails

Naz Der­a­vian, the cre­ator of the blog Bot­tom of the Pot and author of the new cook­book by the same name, turns to a com­fort­ing Per­sian dish when she needs some calm—and a very happy fam­ily mem­ory.

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Tea is the star in­gre­di­ent in fall’s most in­spired sips

The meal that speaks to me more than any other is the sim­plest street food from Tabriz, my mother’s home­town in Iran. It’s called yeralma yu­murta, which means “potato egg,” and it comes from a tra­di­tion of mak­ing do with what you have. My grand­mother used to make it for me for lunch. She’d boil a potato and egg, smoosh them onto flat­bread, and top the mix­ture with olive oil and salt. She was sup­posed to be feed­ing me the stew my mother had de­frosted, but my grand­mother was a rebel. She’d say, “We’re mak­ing our own rules to­day.” We would eat yeralma

yu­murta, play poker, and read Turk­ish cof­fee cups. Now it’s my go-to lunch when I’m in a rush and can’t be both­ered with dirty­ing more than one pot, and it’s the dish I crave af­ter a work­out. Mak­ing it re­minds me of my time with my grand­mother and our lit­tle act of re­bel­lion. That mem­ory still thrills me. This meal is also the one I eat alone for a mo­ment of peace. I turn off all gad­gets, sit at the ta­ble, and make a cup of black tea, Per­sian style. I am so much about cook­ing for big crowds, and I love hav­ing peo­ple over, but this hum­ble “potato egg” cooked and eaten in a mo­ment of Zen is what truly feeds my soul.

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