LIFE IS A BATCH

Clockwise from top left: Papazian pours malted grains into a pot of precisely heated water to make “wort” for a fresh batch of stout; a measured handful of hops taken from his garden, which is added to the wort; a carboy filled with stout wort, which will ferment for a week or more; a hydrometer to check the wort’s sugar content, which will be measured again after fermenting to calculate the amount of alcohol in the finished beer; a pot made for Papazian decades ago by the Wisconsin company Stoelting (it now specializes in ice cream equipment), which Papazian uses to strain grain husks before adding the wort to the fermenter; an instrument known as a “sparge arm” uses fresh hot water to rinse sugars from grains in the wort.