South Florida Sun-Sentinel (Sunday)
Lauderdale-by-the-Sea
As South Florida’s “diving capital,” the majesty of Lauderdale-by-the-Sea Beach is best explored with fishing poles and snorkeling masks, not by lazing on its pristine shoreline. (Although you should totally do that, too.) Adventurous types can spend hours reeling in tarpon atop the 900-foot Anglins Fishing Pier, or diving the Shipwreck Snorkel Trail 400 feet offshore, home to protected staghorn coral, nurse sharks and the historic S.S. Copenhagen, a British cargo steamer that slammed into a reef and sunk offshore 120 years ago.
The shaded pavilion at Anglins Square (behind Anglins Beach Café, which sells bait and tackle) is the charming anchor of the colorful seaside village, a chill-out spot thick with the salty-sweet perfume of ocean breeze and Kilwin’s waffle cones. Often buzzing with weekend bands and giant Jenga, the square is framed by breezy beach cafes (Aruba’s) and seafood hubs (101 Ocean, Mulligan’s) that stretch from the beach west to the Intracoastal.
COVID-19: Because of the pandemic, much of Anglins Square is closed off with guardrails, orange barricades and overturned Adirondack chairs, and eastwest Commercial Boulevard near Ocean Drive is reduced to a single lane to make room for curbside patio seating beneath white and red tents.
Hours: Sunrise to sunset Lifeguards: None Bathroom conditions: Fair at Anglins Beach Café (a server will hand you a bathroom key attached to a wind chime), better at Aruba’s (no permission needed). Further away, town-operated public bathrooms one block south of El Mar Drive and Commercial remain closed, although three portapotties there will work in a pinch.
Activities: Fishing, paddleboarding, kayaking, snorkeling, surfing and diving are allowed as of June 1, but picnicking and beach sports are verboten near the pier. Laura Ward and El Prado parks also are open but sports amenities aren’t. If you must scratch that itch, Plunge Beach Resort (4660 El Mar Drive) on the northern edge of town has beach volleyball for guests only (players wear wristbands so no sneaking in).
Parking: Avoid both lots adjacent to Anglins Fishing Pier and Aruba’s, which charge $10/hour, $20 for four hours. Instead, pay $1.50/hour for metered street parking on El Mar Drive.
Pier: Yes; Anglins Fishing Pier charges $2 for sightseeing, $7 for fishing