Tamale pie gets an update
A vegetarian spin spices up old-school casserole.
Not to be confused with a Latin American tamale, a tamale pie is a beloved retro casserole in the United States, the kind of recipe you’d find taught in 1950s home economics classes, but in a very good way. A layer of ground beef chili covered with cornbread, it’s an easy, convenient and thoroughly adaptable classic that doesn’t get as much attention as, say, a chicken potpie but has the same cozy appeal.
Because casseroles weren’t really a thing in my childhood, I didn’t meet a tamale pie until college. There it was in the cafeteria, golden on top, saucy on the bottom, looking, from my uninitiated perspective, like something I should be wary of.
But then I tasted it. The warm cornbread was nubby, crisp at the edges and very tender. And the ground meat was seasoned with a touch of chili powder, for a kick so gentle it was more like a nudge. It wasn’t like any chili I’d had before. There were no beans, and the beef was dotted with sliced pimento-stuffed olives and yellow corn kernels. Yet, somehow, it melded into something deeply delicious and thoroughly comforting.
When I moved off campus, I forgot all about tamale pie for a decade or two. Then, one day, I stumbled upon the recipe in “The Joy of Cooking.” I made it as soon as I could assemble the ingredients. They were mostly the same as I remembered but with the addition of beans, and sans olives (which, frankly, I didn’t miss).
When I hoisted the pan out of the oven, it was burnished, bubbling perfection, a warming meal that immediately went into our dinner rotation.
Naturally, over the years, I tweaked the recipe, enriching the cornbread with sour cream, melted butter, grated cheddar, a drizzle of honey. And I sharpened up that chili, too, doubling the chili powder and adding cilantro, along with jalapeños and poblanos to amp up that gentle nudge of heat to a full-on kick in the pants.
The tweaking continues in this version, where I’ve nixed the meat entirely. Then I pushed things even further by charring the chiles and onions, a technique common in Mexican salsas. It does require an extra step, but using a broiler keeps it relatively quick.
This zipped-up version never would have passed home ec, but it’s sure to get an A-plus at your next shindig.
VEGETARIAN TAMALE PIE
Not to be confused with a Latin American tamale, tamale pie is a comforting retro casserole made from ground beef chili that is topped with cornbread batter and then baked. This vegetarian version relies on vegetables and beans instead of meat. Fresh green chiles and onions are broiled until charred to deepen their flavor, then puréed with tomatoes to make a complex sauce for the beans. The cornbread topping — crisp at the surface, tender underneath — gets an optional handful of cheddar folded into the mix for added verve. Serve this one-pot meal on its own or with a creamy dollop of sour cream or yogurt on the side.
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
For the chili:
1 large red or white onion, halved
2 jalapeños, halved lengthwise and seeded (if desired)
1 poblano or green bell pepper, sliced in half lengthwise, seeds removed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 ¾ teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more as needed
1 (28-ounce) can whole plum or diced tomatoes
3 fat garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
2 tablespoons mild or hot chili
powder, more as needed
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 ¾ teaspoons ground cumin
3 (15-ounce) cans black or pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems (optional)
For the cornbread:
¾ cup/135 grams fine cornmeal
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
1 large egg, at room temperature
⅓ cup/80 grams sour cream or whole-milk yogurt, plus more for serving
¼ cup/57 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 teaspoons honey
2 scallions, whites and greens thinly sliced, plus more for serving
1 cup grated cheddar (optional) Preparation:
1. Prepare the chili: Move a rack as close to the heating element as possible and heat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil. Finely dice half of the onion and set aside for later.
2. Slice remaining onion half into ½-inch-thick half-moons and arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Place jalapeños and poblano next to onions, cut sides down. Lightly brush vegetables with oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Broil 2 to 4 minutes, until vegetables are charred on one side. (If the chiles are small, they will be charred after 1 to 2 minutes.) Flip vegetables and broil until the other side is charred, 1 to 3 minutes.
3. Transfer pan to a rack until cool enough to handle, then stem the peppers. Transfer charred vegetables and any accumulated juices to a blender (or use a bowl and immersion blender). Add canned tomato and ¼ teaspoon salt, and blend to a coarse purée. You can make this up to 4 days ahead, and store in the refrigerator until needed.)
4. Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large Dutch oven, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high. Add diced onion and sauté until lightly browned, 6 to 9 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in chili powder, oregano, remaining 1 ½ teaspoons salt and cumin, and cook until spices darken, about 30 seconds.
5. Add beans and the reserved tomato purée, and let mixture simmer until thick like a chili, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in cilantro, if using. Taste and add more salt and chili powder, if needed.
6. While the chili simmers, prepare the cornbread: In a medium bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt.
7. In a small bowl, whisk together egg, sour cream, butter and honey. Whisk egg mixture into cornmeal mixture until combined. Fold in scallions.
8. Spread cornbread topping over the chili, then top with grated cheese, if using. Bake, uncovered, until cornbread is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot or warm, topped with sour cream and more scallions.