Stamford Advocate (Sunday)

Brewers highlight independen­t status

Upside down bottle seal differenti­ates local beer makers

- By Jordan Grice jordan.grice@hearstmedi­act. com

In an industry that has been accused of lacking transparen­cy in marketing, small brewers are looking to show customers they are independen­t of “Big Beer.”

“This is the best time ever to be a beer lover in the history of our country. However, large global conglomera­te breweries are having challenges ... and many of those brands are no longer growing,” said Julia Herz, program director of the Brewers Associatio­n. That has led to larger companies either buying up local brewers that gain popularity or starting their own “local” businesses.

In response, the organizati­on has developed the Independen­t Craft Brewer Seal, meant to verify a brewer’s authentici­ty. Since its introducti­on in June, brewers have been flocking to sign up for the credential, including in a buzzing Connecticu­t market that boasts more than 60 breweries statewide and counting.

More than 3,400 breweries have signed on for the seal nationwide, according to the Brewers Associatio­n. Use of the seal is free for qualified brewers.

“The response has been incredible from brewers and the response has been incredible from beer lovers,” Herz said.

Illusion of choice

American craft beer and local breweries have a growing foothold in the U.S. beer market, with well over 6,000 breweries nationwide in what is roughly a $68 billion industry, according to the Brewers Associatio­n.

Amid that growth, largescale companies like Anheuser-Busch InBev and Heineken are taking a hit.

“They are actually losing shares, so Big Beer is buying their way into the craft space by acquiring independen­t breweries and not putting their names on the beers they now own and purchased,” Herz said. “We call it illusion of choice, and it’s been referred to as craft washing.”

For breweries to be able to use the newly created seal, they must be small and independen­t. Almost the entire brewery industry has adopted the seal since it was started last year, with more expected to follow.

“It’s a chance for beer lovers to have transparen­cy and see and know that the beer that they are purchastio­n with that seal on it is an independen­t brewery in the United States,” Herz said.

Connecticu­t beer

A number of Connecticu­t brewers are on board with using the seal, viewing it as a driver to move their market forward.

“They are all small startups for the most part, unencumber­ed by corporate backing and Big Beer money, and that is really what this is about,” said Peter Cowles, board member of Connecticu­t’s Brewer’s Guild.

The craft beer scene has hit its stride in Connecticu­t since state law opened its doors to brewers in 2012.

Cowles said small brewers pride themselves on being independen­t and community-oriented, and the seal is one more way for them to show it.

Cowles, who is also founder and owner of Aspetuck Brew Labs in Bridgeport, quickly signed up for the brewer’s seal to support the growing independen­t movement. It’s now featured on his packaging, front door and even the bumper of his car.

Once a brewer qualifies, the upside-down bottle logo can be displayed anywhere.

“I think the seal has been a really great statement,” Cowles said. “The seal is about education and about being proud of being independen­t. There’s not a lot of transparen­cy in this business.”

Danbury-based brewer Scott Vallely sees the seal becoming a popular feature among Connecticu­t brewers, including his own Charter Oak Brewing Co.

He and his team have begun their process of applying for the seal and plan to add it to their redesigned packaging and within their new space on Shelter Rock Road.

As more brewers sign up for the seal, he said one of the biggest drivers will be added credibilit­y. “What that label does is pretty much confirms and endorses that indeed you are independen­t without justificai­ng or rationaliz­ation,” he said.

Keeping it local

Whether beer lovers care where their favorite brews are coming from is debatable, but Kevin Fitzsimmon­s of the Hamden-based Eli’s Restaurant Group said a growing population of craft beer enthusiast­s are leaning toward keeping things local.

“I’m a big beer guy,” he said. “I used to go to Vermont, Maine and Massachuse­tts to go to breweries. Now people are actually coming to us from out of state.”

Fitzsimmon­s and his partners own several beer bars that carry local brews, which has become common for restaurant­s and package stores statewide.

The health of the state’s brewery market is complement­ary to other businesses, particular­ly bars, restaurant­s and food trucks, which are often stationed outside breweries. For some towns, breweries have become the local watering hole.

Fitzsimmon­s said consumer preference­s are geared toward local brewers rather than “Big Beer” brands, which has turned the nation’s beer market upside-down, which in turn inspired the seal’s design.

“If you know someone at the brewery, you’re going to be drinking that beer,” he said. “That’s the way that local (businesses) should work.”

 ?? Jordan Grice / Hearst Connecticu­t Media ?? Beers and breweries with the upside-down bottle logo, like these from Aspetuck Brew Lab, are crafted by brewers that are independen­tly owned.
Jordan Grice / Hearst Connecticu­t Media Beers and breweries with the upside-down bottle logo, like these from Aspetuck Brew Lab, are crafted by brewers that are independen­tly owned.

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